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IN PRAISE OF THE BRAISE, PART II: SLOW COOKING MAGIC!

Sunday, October 24th, 2010

When the Crock-Pot was invented in Missouri in 1960, no one could have foreseen how great the impact of this modern day slow-cooker would be.  It changed the way many women cooked, allowing them to easily prepare early in the day and have a hot dinner magically awaiting them upon their return, hours later!   Indeed, it was a woman’s dream and freed up much time spent at the stove.  From stews to chili, pot roasts to soups, the slow-cooker has enabled the working person to serve up home-cooked food while putting in a full day at the office.  Interestingly, the Crock-pot also transformed the way Jewish women prepared their weekly Shabbat cholent, a dish that was traditionally made and left in the oven or on the stovetop overnight; nowadays, it is pretty much exclusively prepared in a crock-pot.

With slight variation, most slow cooker recipes are quite simple: dump, cover, go!  This simple formula notwithstanding, crock-pot cookery recipes abound, displaying an incredible amount of creativity and ingenuity for what is mostly a hands-off cooking experience.  With that said, here are some helpful guidelines to ensure good crockery cooking:

  • What the crock-pot does best is braising – cooking a food (usually meat or vegetables) in a small amount of liquid at low heat for a lengthy period of time. The long, slow cooking develops flavor and tenderizes foods by gently breaking down their fibers.  The point being:  tough cuts of meat benefit the most from braising (some examples would include flanken, brisket, and shin meat).
  • A tight-fitting lid is very important to prevent the liquid from evaporating. Some people even close the lid over a piece of parchment paper to create a better seal.
  • To brown or not to brown?  Though many crock-pot recipes call for browning the meat as is classically done when braising (see last week’s article!) prior to slow cooking, many do not.  The benefit is that the meat develops more depth of flavor.   Generally, this is a matter of personal preference.  However, browning is a must with ground meat, and enables one to reduce the fat by draining after browning.
  • Spray the inside of your crock-pot with non-stick cooking spray for an easier clean up.
  • Most crock-pots come with low or high settings, allowing YOU to control the cooking time based on your own schedule.  High will cook faster, low will cook slower. The average cooking time for slow cooker recipes ranges between 4-10 hours.  Some slow-cookers have a “warm” setting, helpful for keeping food hot after cooking has completed.

 

With cooler nights upon us, what better way to warm up than by coming home to a hearty stew of Braised Lamb Shanks with Root Vegetables?  Prepare in the morning and forget about it till dinnertime!

Braised Lamb Shanks with Root Vegetables

Serve over a bed of Basmati rice or couscous.

Ingredients

 

1 Tbsp. olive oil

5 meaty lamb shanks

1 large onion, thinly sliced

3 large carrots, peeled and cut in 1” chunks

1 fennel bulb, fronds and stalks discarded, halved and sliced crosswise

1 celery stalk, sliced

1 medium potato, peeled and cut into 1” chunks

2 parsnips, peeled and cut into 1” chunks

5 cloves garlic, minced

2 tsp. kosher salt or more to taste

¾ tsp. ground black pepper or more to taste

1½ tsp. dried rosemary

1½ tsp. dried thyme

3 Tbsp. flour

3 Tbsp. tomato paste

¼ cup orange juice

2 cups dry white wine

½ cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable stock

¾ tsp. grated orange zest (optional)

Heat olive oil in a large skillet over high heat.  Sear the shanks on both sides until golden brown, about 3-4 minutes per side.  Transfer to the slow-cooker bowl.  Add onion, carrots, fennel, celery, potato, parsnips, and garlic to the bowl.  Combine remaining ingredients in a small bowl, mixing to blend and dissolve flour.  Pour mixture over lamb and vegetables.  Cover with lid.  Place bowl in slow cooker and turn on “low” setting.  Cook for 8-9 hours.  Skim off fat if necessary, and season to taste with salt and pepper.  

Serves 4-6.

Naomi Ross and the Park East Kosher Family
By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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In Praise of the Braise

Wednesday, October 20th, 2010

When we turned on the heat this past week, the new reality of the cooler weather began to sink in…to my cold hands and feet, that is.  As everyone knows, we are creatures impacted by the seasons, and this applies to our cooking as well.  So it was a natural response when, asked by a friend what recipes I was working on, that I dismissively replied, “recipes for the ‘Braising Season.’”

“The WHAT season?  What was that you said?”

Braising.  Simply put, the perfect cooking antidote for cold wintry nights, bound to warm the body and soul.  Or, if you are looking for a real definition:  Braising is a cooking technique in which the main ingredient is seared, or browned in fat, and then simmered in liquid on low heat in a covered pot.  Also known as “pot-roasting,” this is an essential technique for yielding succulent, tender results from otherwise tough cuts of meat.   By slowly simmering the meat in liquid (often wine or stock), the connective tissue found in more economical cuts of meat (parts of the animal that were well exercised) breaks down and melts into the fabulously flavorful cooking liquid which in turn helps to tenderize the muscle fibers.  The cuts of meat that benefit the most from this cooking method include: brisket, shanks, kolichel and short ribs; however, chicken (bone-in), firm-fleshed fish and vegetables can also benefit from this method with mouth-watering results. 

Beyond the amazing aroma that will fill your home when braising (and jealous neighbors wishing they were eating at your house for dinner!), there’s also some practical benefits to mention.  First of all, one-pot cooking means less clean-up.  Braising is also pretty much hands-off once the meat has been seared and the cooking has commenced.  This means your dinner can be prepared hours in advance and your hands are free to do other things while it cooks away.  

Braising can be done stove-top or in the oven.  I favor a combination of the two – browning the meat stove-top to start, then transferring to the oven for the majority cooking time.  With this approach, a pot that is both stove and oven friendly is particularly helpful – a Dutch oven or LeCrueset type of covered enameled pot/casserole will be great for this.

Comforting and homey, a pot roast will satisfy on the coldest winter night, transporting you back to your grandmother’s kitchen.  In recent years though, some braises have taken the front and center at high-end restaurants.   Here is my take on Braised Short Ribs – perfect for an intimate dinner or a crowd, this rich dish can be prepared in advance if desired.

Braised Short Ribs with Port and Pomegranate Sauce

Serve over a bed of mashed potatoes or parsnips.

Serves 4-6.

2 tbsp. olive oil

4- 4½ pounds beef short ribs

1 cup chopped carrots

1 cup chopped onion

1 cup chopped celery

8 garlic cloves, minced

¾ tsp. kosher salt

½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1 ½ cups dry red wine (Cabernet or Merlot)

2/3 cup Port

1½ cups (12 oz.) crushed tomatoes 

1 cup low-sodium chicken or beef stock

5 tbsp. pomegranate molasses

1 tbsp. honey (or more to taste)

1 bay leaf

2 tbsp. minced parsley or more for garnishing

Preheat oven to 350°F.  Heat oil in a heavy, large, oven-safe pot or casserole dish, over high heat.  Sprinkle ribs with salt and pepper.  Working in batches, brown ribs, turning occasionally, about 3 minutes per side.  Transfer to plate and set aside.  Lower heat to medium-high.  Add carrots, onion, and celery to the pot.  Season with ¾ tsp. salt and ½ tsp. black pepper.  Sauté for about 5-8 minutes, or until vegetables become tender, stirring occasionally.   Add garlic, stir to blend, and cook for another 3 minutes.  Add red wine, and bring to a boil, stirring and scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.  Add Port, tomatoes, broth, pomegranate molasses, honey and bay leaf, and stir to blend.  Bring back to a boil, and simmer for about 6-8 minutes and until mixture is slightly thickened.  Return ribs to the pot, and boil for about 5 minutes.  Cover and transfer to oven.  Bake until meat almost falls off bone, stirring occasionally, about 2 hours.

Skim off excess fat from surface if necessary.  Using tongs, transfer ribs to a large bowl.  Return pot to stove over low heat.  Season to taste, adding more salt, pepper or honey if necessary.  Add minced parsley and simmer cooking liquid until slightly reduced, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes.  Remove from heat and top ribs with sauce.  Sprinkle more minced parsley to garnish, if desired.

Naomi Ross and the Park East Kosher Family
By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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“Fast” Meals

Tuesday, September 14th, 2010

Over the course of the Jewish year, there is no dearth of food-related ideas to write about.  In fact, considering how central food is to Jewish observances and lifecycles, I rarely find myself lacking in material.   There’s always another holiday coming up, and always the need for what-to-serve, what-to-eat.  But Yom Kippur, the Day of Atonement is the biggest fast day of the year.  It’s not about food. Come this Friday night, Jews all over the world will stop eating and drinking for a day (that alone is something to write about!)   But Yom Kippur is not about fasting either; It’s about rising above the absence of food, and all the distractions in order to connect and think and pray.

It’s hard for us to celebrate without food to mark the occasion.  Consider the “seudat hamafseket” (the last meal preceding the fast of Yom Kippur).    I always find this to be the most conflicted meal of the year – highly functional while at the same time festive and yet also in keeping with the seriousness of the day.   Go try to put that into a menu – it’s slightly paradoxical, from a cook’s perspective anyhow.      The meal needs to be homey and satisfying, without spiciness; sweet and celebratory, with solemnity.  It needs to be a meal that ends with contentedness, knowing that we’ve eaten all that we want so that we no longer have to, and no longer need to.  At that point we can go into Yom Kippur prepared and ready to focus on the meaning of the day.

You’re of course wondering then, well what do we eat?  (It always seems to come back to that, doesn’t it?)  I recommend this fruity, tangy chicken recipe, smothered in sauce over a bed of mashed potatoes.  The following dish is simple to prepare, and the sauce can even be prepared a day ahead.  Serve with green beans and a nice salad and don’t forget to drink lots of water.     

Fresh Apricot and Orange Chicken

12 oz. jar orange marmalade

4 fresh apricots, pitted and sliced

¼ cup white wine

Juice of 1 lime

¼ tsp. ground ginger

1 whole chicken (4 lbs.), cut into 1/8ths

¾ tsp. garlic powder

Kosher salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. 

Place first five ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer.  Simmer for about 10 minutes, until apricots are very tender and sauce has slightly thickened.  Remove from heat and set aside.

Rinse chicken parts and pat dry.  Place chicken in a roasting pan and sprinkle with garlic powder, kosher salt and black pepper.  Pour sauce over chicken.  Bake uncovered for about 1¼-1½ hours, until chicken is nicely browned and sauce is bubbly.   

Wishing you an easy and meaningful fast,

Naomi Ross and the Park East Kosher Family
By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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FIGS FOREVER

Tuesday, September 7th, 2010

Searching the markets for this year’s “new fruit,” an object to be sanctified and enjoyed by many on Rosh Hashanah, is always an adventure.  Unfortunately, it is often an anticlimactic experience for me.  Much as I enjoy scouting out the exotic cherimoya (out of season and unripe this time of year) or the much sought after star fruit (which looks much cooler than it tastes), I often end up with a misunderstood fruit that commanded a misunderstood price at the center of my holiday table (or likely later in my holiday garbage).   And so, each year I return to the aisles in anticipation of finding that fruit which marks the newness that Rosh Hashanah is all about…and secretly hope that it will taste good, too.

But this year is different.  This year is sweet with inspiration.  I didn’t have to look to the far ends of the earth to find a fruit pregnant with newness; I had only to look in my own backyard – my own Biblical backyard, that is.   This summer, I enjoyed many walks and hikes in Israel, and was frequently reminded of the “shivat haminim” (the seven species including wheat, barley, grapes, figs, pomegranates, olives and dates) which the Torah declares are abundant in the Land of Israel.  And indeed they are.   One of my favorites is the fig.  The plump beauties I encountered on my trip bore no resemblance to the crusty, dried Tu B”shvat specimens of my youth.  Dark and dull on the outside, you only had to pull them apart to reveal the rosy-red juiciness that lies within, the myriad internal flowers that are the actual fruit.   It says in the Talmud that Torah is like a fig tree, which has fruit at various stages of ripening; the longer one works at it, the more one finds.  This idea gave me much hope – that each day there is something new to learn, ripe for the picking and filled with blossoms of potential.  That’s an idea to start the New Year with.  That’s a newness to bless.  Move over cherimoya…the fig is back.

Figs are not only delicious to snack on, though; they also lend a terrific element to cooked dishes.  Figs possess a delicate flavor that can add depth and sweetness to your holiday cooking.   Pairing veal with fresh figs worked wonderfully for me when developing the following holiday recipe, infusing the meat with subtle fruitiness.  I hope your guests with think so too.

Roast Veal with Muscato-Fig Reduction 

Serves 6.

A meat thermometer is an invaluable tool in determining perfectly cooked meat.  Be sure to use one in this recipe for perfectly moist veal.

 

  • 1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
  • ½ small fennel bulb, trimmed and chopped (a scant cup)
  • 4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
  • 1 shallot, chopped
  • 2 tbsp. olive oil, divided
  • 1 3½ lb. veal shoulder roast
  • ¼ cup honey
  • 10 fresh black mission figs, halved
  • 1 cup Muscato (sweet white wine)
  • ¼ cup beef or chicken stock
  • 2 tsp. cornstarch (optional)
  • Kosher salt and Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

 

Preheat oven to 450°F.  Place chopped onion, fennel, garlic, and shallot in the bottom of a medium roasting pan (large enough to fit a rack).  Season with salt and pepper and toss with 1 tbsp. olive oil.  Place rack over vegetables.  Rub remaining tbsp. oil all over the veal roast and season liberally with salt and pepper.  Place roast on the rack.  Place pan in oven and roast for 10 minutes, until browned.  Turn roast over and repeat for an additional 10 minutes.  Remove pan from the oven and reduce oven to 325°.  Drizzle honey over roast and add figs and wine to the bottom of the pan.  Cover with tented foil and return to oven.  Bake for 1 ½ hours or until meat thermometer reaches 155 degrees internally.

Remove from oven and transfer veal and rack from pan to a platter or cutting board.  While veal rests, pour the contents of the bottom of the pan through a sieve set over a small saucepan.  Reserve the figs and set aside.  Press the vegetables against the sieve to release any additional liquid into the saucepan.  Discard vegetables.  

Place saucepan over medium heat, add stock, and bring to a simmer.  Reduce liquid by half, about 15 minutes (sauce should thicken to syrupy consistency – if sauce is too thin, pour off a small amount into a cup, dissolve cornstarch into the liquid and add back into the sauce.  Stir until thickened.).

Slice veal into thin slices, and place onto platter.  Pour sauce over veal (or serve on the side in a gravy boat) and garnish with reserved cooked figs. 

Just when you thought Rosh Hashanah couldn’t get any sweeter, here’s a bonus recipe incorporating another of the “seven species” into the menu, one that is also one of the symbolic foods eaten on Rosh Hashanah: dates.  Two symbolic fruits for the price of one!

On Rosh Hashanah night, we eat dates because the Hebrew word for date is “tamar”, which sounds similar to “tamu”, to consume.  We pray that G-d will consume our enemies and grant us all a very sweet New Year.

Orange-Scented Date Crumb Bars

If you weren’t a date-lover before, you will be after these treats.  Perfect for dessert or tea, these bars are great anytime.

  1. 1 1/4 cups water
  2. ¼ cup triple-sec or orange flavored liquor
  3. ½ tsp. grated orange peel (optional)
  4. 1 1/2 cups chopped pitted Medjool dates (about 10 oz.)
  5. 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  6. 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  7. ¾ cup (packed) dark brown sugar
  8. 1 cup old-fashioned oats
  9. 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  10. 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  11. 1/2 teaspoon salt
  12. ¼ tsp. cloves
  13. ¼ tsp. allspice
  14. 3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter or margarine, diced, room temperature
  15. ½ cup toasted chopped pecans

Preheat oven to 350°F.  Grease an 8×8-inch metal baking pan.  Bring water, liquor, and orange peel to simmer in medium saucepan.  Add dates and simmer until very soft and thick, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes.  Stir in vanilla.  Cool to room temperature.

Combine flour, brown sugar, oats, cinnamon, baking soda, salt, cloves and allspice in large bowl.  Stir to blend.  Add butter.  Using fingertips, rub the butter into the mixture until moist clumps form. Press half of oat mixture evenly over bottom of prepared pan.  Spread date mixture on top.  Mix chopped pecans into remaining half of oat mixture, then sprinkle the mixture on top of the dates.  Press gently.  Bake until brown at edges and golden brown and set in center, about 40 minutes.  Cool completely in pan on a cooling rack.  Cut into bars and serve.

 

Wishing you a Happy and Healthy New Year,

Naomi Ross and the Park East Kosher Family

 

By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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TOPS FOR THE 4TH

Tuesday, June 29th, 2010

He wipes his forehead, beads of sweat slowly building from the beaming sun above and sweltering smoke below.  Another burger meets the grill.  And another.  The sizzle makes him crack a smile, as he knows that hungry bellies will be happy and sated soon.   Good times.  Family times…they keep him grilling.

That’s a lovely image.  It sure would be a shame if he ruined those burgers.  Dry and rubbery, hockey puck-like burgers are not the stuff great family memories are made of.  A great burger, in all its perfect simplicity, is a beautiful thing – juicy, flavorful and satisfying.  And hey, let’s face it: even if your company leaves something to be desired, at least you’ve been well fed!  Albeit a commonplace American meal at this point, a hamburger is worth taking the time to do right.

A good burger is half about the burger and half about what you put on top of it.   If the meat is the body of the burger, then the fixings – relishes, sauces, vegetables and the like – are its personality, the accessories which dress up and add style and flair to your meal.

The Burger

Some people try to gussy up their meat with all kinds of seasonings and spices.    I prefer to let the true flavor of the meat speak for itself, adding few spices, if any.   Fat plays a huge role in the flavor and juiciness of a good burger.   Most grilling authorities recommend between 15-20% fat content which, for the kosher consumer, means either ground chuck (about 20%) or ground neck (about 15%).   Extra lean ground beef (usually from the shoulder) may seem like a healthier choice, but does not contain enough fat to sufficiently lubricate the meat as it cooks and will end up producing a dry burger.

A hot, oiled grilled is the perfect place to cook a burger.   Over high direct heat, a burger only takes about 4 minutes per side for medium (less if you like it rare).   And even though the sound of grease meeting the fire is oh-so-thrilling, do your best to restrain yourself from pressing down on the meat – it’s a great way to squeeze out  the juices and dry out your burger.  Like a steak, once the burger comes off the grill, allow 2-3 minutes for the meat to rest so that the juices can settle back in.    Then you can assume the creative task of dressing your burger.

The Fixings

Much like not wearing white after Labor Day, classic American sensibilities dictate that a hamburger comes with bun, lettuce, tomato, pickles and ketchup.   Period.   But in 2010, anything goes:  Caramelized onions, grilled Portobellos, arugula, sweet chutneys, spicy relishes.   Contrasting flavors and textures are what make the burger an open canvas, fully customizable.  Yes, the burger is individualistic food, personal food.    So this Fourth of July, go all out, change it up, and top it with the best…your best!

Lamb Burgers with Mint Chutney and Pickled Red Onions

Beef is so last year!  Ground lamb has a flavor all its own and is the perfect match for mint – a refreshing burger!

Serves 6.

1 ¼ lb. ground lamb

½ tsp. ground cinnamon

¾ tsp. ground paprika

¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Gently mix together all ingredients in a mixing bowl.  Form the mixture into approximately 6 thick patties (about ¾” each).  Do not over-handle.

Preheat your grill to high heat, and carefully oil the grates (a wad of oil-soaked paper towels and tongs work well for this job).

Place the patties on the grill.  Grill for about 4 minutes per side, flipping once during grilling.   Transfer to a plate and serve on a toasted bun with a spoonful of Mint Chutney and Picked Red onions on top.

Mint Chutney

1 cup packed mint leaves

1 shallot

1 large garlic clove

1 tbsp. sugar

2 tbsp. water

¼-½ tsp. red pepper flakes (or more if you like it hot!)

3 tbsp. lime juice (from about 1-2 limes)

1 tbsp. lemon juice (from about ½ lemon)

½ tsp. cumin

¾ tsp. kosher salt

½ tsp. ground black pepper

¼ tsp ground ginger

Place all ingredients in a food processor.  Process until fully blended.  Season to taste.

Picked Red Onions

1 red onion (about 12 ounces), halved lengthwise, cut thinly crosswise

2 whole small jalapeños

2 cups seasoned rice vinegar

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon coarse kosher salt
Place onion and jalapeños in heatproof medium bowl. Mix vinegar, lime juice and salt in a small saucepan. Bring just to a boil, stirring until salt dissolves. Pour over onion and jalapeños. Let stand at room temperature at least 1 hour and up to 8 hours. This can be made 1 week ahead; cover and refrigerate.

Wishing you all a delicious and restful summer,

-Naomi Ross & the Park East Kosher Family

By Naomi Ross

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Summer’s Bounty

Thursday, June 24th, 2010

It’s easy to get really spoiled in the spring and summertime…with things that grow, I mean.    After a long winter of tasteless tomatoes that were grown long ago and far away, stockpiled in a supermarket where the bland, waxed apples reign supreme, my taste buds nearly go into shock with the first bold taste of spring.   Nothing beats a seasonally ripe strawberry in all its sweet glory, its fragrance still lingering in the air even after the last bite – nothing, except perhaps a freshly picked ripe strawberry. 

I admit it.  I’ve been particularly spoiled in this way over the past 2 years.  Come spring and summer, about half of the produce finding its way to our table has either been grown in our own home garden, or from our CSA.  CSA stands for Community Supported Agriculture, a growing trend in America modeled after the successful European farming cooperative initiatives.   In a CSA, local farms are supported by “shareholders” who have purchased a share of what will be grown on the farm that week.  Most farms offering CSA programs practice organic and/or  sustainable farming techniques.  Each week, I am delighted (and often surprised!) by the adventure of what I’ll find in my CSA box, some of which is not even available at your average supermarket: crisp, flavorful greens;  sweet heirloom varieties of beets and tomatoes; squash in all sizes and shapes.  It’s all simply fantastic.  Sound fun?  You can find a CSA near you at http://www.localharvest.org/csa

Farmers’ markets are another great way of accessing locally grown produce at the height of the season.  You’ll be amazed at the variety and the freshness, and you’ll probably learn a lot, too…especially if you snag a chef and follow his lead!  You can find a list of farmers’ markets near you at http://www.localharvest.org/farmers-markets.

Between my CSA and our garden, my own cooking has changed quite a bit as well.  Instead of letting my menu dictate my shopping list, I now let my ingredients dictate what I’ll be cooking…a refreshing and redemptive change.   If you’re brave-hearted enough to let go and make that jump, it’s hard to go back.  The following soup was created with a surplus of Toscano Kale.  Tuscano Kale is a super-tasty Italian variety of Kale (a type of cabbage), sometimes referred to as Black Kale, Dinosaur Kale, Palm Tree Kale or Lacinato Kale.  It’s packed with vitamins (more A, K and C than you’ll find just about anywhere) and flavor.  If you can’t find it in anywhere, you can use regular Kale in its place, although not with the same results.  With a hunk of crusty bread, I find it to be a perfect lunch or dinner appetizer.   I hope you’ll think so, too.

Hearty Kale & White Bean Soup

Using a turkey leg lends excellent flavor to this soup’s broth.   If preparing your own white beans, be sure to soak them for several hours or overnight prior to cooking them.

 

Serves 6.

2 tbsp. olive oil

1 large turkey leg

1 large onion, chopped (about 2 cups)

1 large carrot, peeled and diced

2 stalks celery, sliced

2 small potatoes, peeled and diced

½ tsp. kosher salt

3 garlic cloves, minced

6 cups vegetable broth or water

2 ½ cups cooked small white beans (a scant 1½ cans)

1 bunch Toscano Kale, center stem removed and leaves cut into 2 inch strips

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat oil in a large soup pot over high heat.  Place turkey leg in pot and sear on both sides, until browned, about 2 minutes per side.  Remove the turkey leg and reduce heat to medium-high.  Add onions, carrot, celery and potatoes, stirring to coat, and scraping up any browned bits.  Season with ½ tsp. salt, and sauté until just tender, about 7-8 minutes.  Add garlic and sauté another 1-2 minutes.   Add broth or water and return to a boil.

Add the white beans, kale and seared turkey leg to the pot.  Stir to blend and reduce heat to low.   Simmer covered for about 25-30 minutes.  Remove turkey leg from the pot, and dice up the meat from the leg.   Return diced turkey meat to the pot.   Adjust the thickness of soup if necessary with additional broth or water.   Season to taste with plenty of kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.    Serve hot and enjoy!

By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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One Kebab, Two kebab…

Tuesday, June 8th, 2010

Few people can resist the allure of open fire cooking.  The scent of caramelizing  juices rising up under your nose is enough to awaken man’s primeval roots.  Where smoky charring flavors meld with the subtle sweetness of delicately spiced meats: that is a meal worth breaking a sweat over.  Put it all on a skewer and the possibilities become endless.   

Shish kebab, literally “skewer” and “roasted meat” in Turkish, may have gotten its start by nomads skewering meat on their swords for a quick and inventive meal, but over time have impacted cooking traditions around the world, from Persia to Japan to India to the United States.   Traditionally, shish kebab are made with cubes of lamb that have been seasoned and marinated.  The speed at which the small pieces of meat cook make for a 10-minute meal-in-one, especially if you throw some vegetables on your stick, too.   Nowadays, whether fish is your fancy or a fruited kebab for dessert, there is no limit to how creative you can get.  Be sure to keep the following top five Do’s in mind when ”kebab-ing” (anything can be a verb, you know! ):

  • DO prepare pieces of meat/vegetables in uniform size pieces – about 1-2 inches to ensure even cooking.
  • DO choose bold flavors in your marinade or herb rub.
  • DO pair vegetables/fruits with similar cooking times to the meat (i.e. onions, peppers, cherry tomatoes, pineapple work well.   Hard vegetables like potatoes or carrots should be parboiled first).
  • DO soak wooden skewers for at least 20-30 minutes before threading and grilling to prevent catching fire on the grill.
  • DO oil your grill first to prevent sticking.

Admittedly a “newbie” to Indian food, I was recently introduced to a whole new world of vibrant flavors and tastes at a kosher Indian restaurant in NYC.    Ever since that memorable meal, Indian spices and ingredients seem to be finding their way into my home cooking, for example in the following Indian-inspired kebab recipe.   

A spicy Tamarind dipping sauce is the perfect complement to these kebabs.   Also known as Indian date, the tamarind is the fruit of a tall shade tree native to Asia and northern Africa and widely grown in India.  Available in Middle Eastern or Indian markets, tamarind paste is the extracted sweet and sour pulp found in the tamarind pod…and quite possibly my new favorite ingredient!

 

 

 

Indian Kebabs with Spicy Tamarind Dipping Sauce

Chicken or Turkey Kebabs work well in this recipe and come already cut and  skewered from Park East Kosher both in white and dark meats.

Serves 4.

1 tbsp. cumin

1 tbsp. coriander

½ tsp. ground black pepper

1 ½ tsp. turmeric

¼ tsp. ground cloves

1/8 tsp. nutmeg

1/8 tsp. cinnamon

¼ cup cilantro leaves (packed)

1 tsp. fresh gingerroot (about ½” chunk)

2 cloves garlic, peeled

4 chicken or turkey kebabs

Place all ingredients (except kebabs) in the food processor and process until uniform spice mixture is formed.   Divide mixture amongst kebabs, about 1-2 tbsp. per kebab and rub into each kebab all around until coated.   Marinate for at least 2 hours or overnight.

Preheat grill to high.  Carefully oil grates (I use an oil-soaked wad of paper towels and tongs for this job).   Place chicken kebabs on grill for about 4-5 minutes per side, turning once; Turkey kebabs may take a little longer, about 6-7 minutes per side.

Transfer to a platter and serve over Basmati rice with Spicy Tamarind Dipping Sauce.

Spicy Tamarind Dipping Sauce

¼ cup tamarind paste

¼ light brown sugar

½-1 whole jalapeno pepper, seeds removed (how hot do you like it?)

2 tbsp. water

2 tbsp. fresh lime juice (from 1 lime)

1 clove garlic

1 tsp. fresh gingerroot

1/8 tsp. ground cloves

Place all ingredients into a food processor.  Process until blended and smooth.   Adjust seasonings to taste.

Yield: ½ cup

By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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The Ultimate ‘Cue

Tuesday, May 25th, 2010

Walking outside on a Sunday evening, you can’t help but pick up the subtle yet unmistakable scent of BBQ in the air.  The aroma draws us in, gets our mouths watering, and at the same time throws us back to a million memories of summers past enjoying the company of family and friends over the delicacies of the grill. 

There is something extraordinary about the results we produce from cooking over an open fire, and there is very little as satisfying as a good barbeque.  With the grilling season upon us, here’s a helpful primer in time for Memorial Day.

That said, let’s focus on the quintessential barbecue obsession–the mother of all BBQ, the reason men happily spend hours working a hot grill, the piece d’resistance of carnivores everywhere.  That’s right.  Ribs.  I’m not talking about flanken or braised short ribs.  I’m talking about gooey, sticky, eat-it-with-your-hands and sink-your-teeth-into-it ribs.  I’m talking about the kind you need a stack of napkins for on the side.  Ribs fall into the category of a “patchke” (a project, so to speak); however, there are some “patchkes” that are worth preparing for special occasions, if only once or twice a year.  And these should be on that list!

Preparing good ribs are not difficult, but they are time consuming, so plan ahead.   Allow plenty of time to marinate your ribs.  “Marinades are the lifeblood of barbecue,” writes Steven Raichlen, today’s foremost BBQ guru.  The flavors need the proper time to sit and absorb.  I created this recipe after dreaming about the finger-licking ribs I had as a child, and they are delicious.  Your guests will tell you so, too!  

Brown Sugar & Bourbon Ribs

 

Serves 4.

Getting Started:

  • Before you begin, don’t forget to check your fuel supply.  It would be a shame to prepare such wonderful ribs and then realize that you have no more propane or charcoal to cook them!   
  • Preheat your grill for indirect grilling – this means that the food will not be cooked directly on the heat.  If your grill has 3 zones of heat, set the back and front burners to medium heat and keep the center burner off.  If your grill has 2 zones of heat, set one side of the grill for medium heat and leave the other side off.  Keep the lid closed until the heat registers at around 350 degrees (as opposed to direct grilling in which you would preheat it to at least 500 degrees). 
  • Oil your grill grate just before placing the food on top.  You can use a wad of oil- soaked paper toweling and rub it on the grates with tongs.  Oiling the grates will prevent your food from sticking.
  • Be organized! Have everything you need for grilling ready and on hand at grill- side before you start. (That means your meat, tongs, basting sauce, serving plate, etc.)

 

Ay, there’s the rub!

American-style ribs are marinated by way of a rub, a spice mixture applied to the meat in order to flavor and cure it before grilling.

Ribs

1½ tbsp. dark brown sugar

1 tbsp. kosher salt

1½ tsp. black pepper

¾ tsp. cayenne pepper

1½ tsp. thyme

1½ tsp. garlic powder

¾ tsp. onion powder

1 tbsp. paprika

1½ tsp. dry mustard powder

8-10 beef spare ribs

1 ½ cups (12 oz.) pineapple juice

 

Mix all the spices together in a small bowl.  Rub the spice mixture into the ribs on all sides (I didn’t say “sprinkle”, I said “rub”…with your fingers).  Place ribs into a large baking dish or foil pan, cover, and refrigerate for 4-8 hours, or even overnight (and no, a half-hour is not enough!).  

Getting Tender

These ribs are pre-cooked in order to make them more tender before being finished on the grill.  Preheat oven to 325 degrees.  Pour pineapple juice into the pan.  Cover with foil and bake until the meat is tender, about 45 minutes-1 hour. 

All in Good Baste

There are many different kinds of BBQ sauces in the world and several different styles even just within the United States.  The classic sweet, tomato-based sauce that has come to define “BBQ sauce” is just one type.  Bold flavor contrasts are the benchmark of a great sauce (e.g. sweet vs. sour, smoky vs. fruity), one which will hopefully enhance and finish the dish when brushed on during grilling.   

BBQ sauces with high sugar content, as with the following recipe, should be applied in the last few minutes of grilling because the sugar burns easily.  While your grill preheats, prepare the basting sauce to have at the ready.

Basting Sauce

½ cup dark brown sugar

¼ cup bourbon whiskey

1 tbsp. Dijon mustard

2 tbsp. soy sauce

¼ cup apricot butter or apricot jam

Whisk all ingredients in medium-sized bowl to blend.

Grill Time

Grill ribs in the center of your grill (or where there is no heat), with the cover closed, until heated through and slightly charred, about 6-8 minutes per side. Brush generously on all sides with basting sauce.  Grill until sauce becomes a sticky glaze, about 3 minutes longer per side. 

The ribs are done when the meat is very tender and has shrunk back from the ends of the bone.  Transfer to a platter and serve.  

Long summer days are upon us.  Heed the call of your barbeque favorites, and make some delicious new memories on your grill this summer.  With your tongs in hand and napkins at the ready, let the grilling begin!
By Naomi Ross

 

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The Conscientious Carnivore

Thursday, May 6th, 2010

Ask your average Joe where his chicken came from, and odds are he’ll tell you the name of the supermarket from which he bought it.   Like the “cup-o-soup” or can of tomato sauce, poultry and meats have become yet another product under cellophane and Styrofoam that gets thrown into the shopping cart without much thought, without much consideration.  Though more awareness and thoughtfulness are beginning to affect today’s consumer, the reality of being far removed from our food, of knowing little of the life and death of what nourishes us, can erode our understanding of just what exactly makes for a choice piece of chicken: what makes it particularly flavorful or healthful and the obvious ethical choices implicit in such questions.  My grandmother remembers going on Friday mornings to select the live chicken that would shortly become their Shabbat dinner…my, how much more complicated eating has become. 

For Shlomo Fink, owner of David Elliot Poultry Farm in Scranton, PA., producing good poultry is no mystery.  His family has been doing it since 1941.   David Elliot produces about 10,000 birds per day, a small number in comparison to some of the larger mass-produced poultry factories.  Broilers (really tasty – see my recipe below!), 10 lb. capons, and turkeys abound, but their signature bird is a true kosher Rock Cornish Hen (1 lb. single serving size), sweet and succulent to the last bite.   According to Fink, operating on a small scale is what distinguishes David Elliot Poultry from other products, allowing more dedication and attention to quality and the highest standards of kosher slaughter.  

David Elliot offers an array of “natural” poultry – free of growth hormones and antibiotics.   You might be wondering if this matters and why it is significant.  When birds are kept in cramped, dirty conditions, disease can spread.  To counteract this, the large-scale poultry processing companies administer antibiotics.  Additionally, the high volumes of poultry these companies produce do not leave time for a chicken to grow at a natural pace; instead, they inject it with hormones to make it grow faster.  On a smaller scale, with less crowding and better conditions, all this should not be necessary.  Not surprisingly, healthier chicks taste better; and they just might be better for your health as well. 

You don’t have to be a vegetarian to think about from whence your meat came. With a little thought and by supporting the farms who want to do it right, you are paying homage to the animal that was your dinner and to the Creator Who put it on your plate.      

Park East Kosher is a proud seller of David Elliot Poultry – be sure to inquire when placing an order.

Apricot Glazed Euro-Breast with Savory Stuffing

A Euro-breast (also called “French breast”), a breast quarter deboned with the wing attached, is becoming a popular cut.  Your Park East Butcher is happy to prepare it for you upon request.

Serves 4.

2 tbsp. olive oil

1 cup diced carrots (from 1-2 large carrots)

1 cup diced celery (from about 2 stalks)

1 cup chopped onion (1 medium onion)

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ tsp. dried thyme

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1/3 cup panko bread crumbs (or coarse fresh bread crumbs)

4 broiler Euro-breasts (David Elliot’s)*

3 tbsp. apricot preserves

1 tbsp. white wine

 

Directions:

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. 

Heat oil in a large skillet.  Add carrots, celery and onion, and sauté for about 7-8 minutes or until vegetables are tender.    Add garlic, thyme, kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste.  Stir to blend and continue to sauté another 2 minutes.   Remove from heat.  Add the bread crumbs and mix until combined.  Set aside.

Rinse chicken breasts and pat dry.  Season well with salt and pepper.  Stuff approximately 3-4 tablespoons of stuffing underneath the skin towards the bone, making sure the skin contains the stuffing  (don’t overstuff).  Place each stuffed breast in a baking pan.

Mix apricot preserves and wine together in a small bowl.  Brush mixture generously over the skin of each breast.  Place pan in oven uncovered for about 50-60 minutes, until the skin is golden brown, basting with pan juices about halfway through the cooking time.  Serve hot and enjoy!

By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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Speed Cooking

Monday, April 12th, 2010

The Food Network is soaring with popularity these days.  Celebrity chefs are putting out cookbooks faster than you can say “Rachel Ray,” and to their credit, have transformed cooking into a glamorous activity.  And although cooking may be “in,” women — who are still primarily the ones responsible for meal preparation in the home– are spending less time in the kitchen than ever before.   Consider this:  According to a study done in the year 1900, a typical woman spent 44 hours per week preparing meals and cleaning up after them.  That is an astounding figure.  Everything made was fresh and from scratch; cooking for the family was a full-time job.  By 1950, with the advent of the modern electrical kitchen and many packaged convenience products, that number had dropped by more than fifty percent.   Dare we ask how many hours the average woman spends in her kitchen nowadays?

While it is true that technology has freed up so many hours previously spent cooking, this has been more than offset by the time women now spend at work.  As a result, women today have far less time to cook.  We own rice cookers, bread makers, waffle makers, and every other gadget to “simplify” and quicken our cooking, and yet despite our desire to provide nourishing homemade meals for our families, the main frustration amongst women today is that we have no time!  As a result, “30-minute meals”, OAMC (Once A Month Cooking), and prepared frozen foods are more the norm than the exception.

In most families, weeknight “dinnertime” is not what it used to be. With longer school days and more extracurricular activities for kids combined with a longer workday for parents, the family bonding that has long been synonymous with supper is becoming more and more challenging to sustain.   But try we must!  The Project EAT team (Eating Among Teens) at the University of Minnesota’s School of Public Health has been investigating the many health benefits for teens eating family meals. Their research has found that teens who reported eating more family meals per week reported significantly less substance abuse, fewer eating disorders, and significantly better academic and mental health than those eating fewer meals with family.  Getting a healthy dinner on the table is a challenge and can often seem like a chore.  But if you consider the importance of what you’re really doing – establishing family cohesiveness and connectedness while nourishing your family — it’s one of the best investments you can make.

Here is a game plan for a simple “30-minute meal” that is healthy and flavorful to boot.  Kosher shoulder lamb chops are a treat for anyone at the end of a long day and take no time to prepare.  Spend 5 minutes in the morning to marinate the chops, and they’ll be ready to throw into the pan when you get home!  While the chops cook, prepare rice and steamed broccoli as an accompaniment; the whole meal should only take 20-25 minutes to prepare and is a tasty well-balanced supper.  Enjoy!

Savory Minted Lamb Chops

These lamb chops marinate for a few hours, but the actual cook time is very short – only 10 minutes!

  • 3 tbsp. olive oil
  • 3 tbsp. fresh mint leaves, minced
  • 2 large garlic cloves, minced
  • 3/4 tsp. kosher salt
  • ½ tsp. ground cumin
  • ½ tsp. ground coriander
  • 1/8-1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper (how hot do you like it?)
  • ¼ tsp. curry powder
  • ¼ tsp. black pepper
  • 2 tsp. canola or vegetable oil
  • 4 ½-3/4 -inch-thick shoulder lamb chops

Place all ingredients (except for veg. oil and lamb chops) in a small mixing bowl and mix well.  Spread a little bit of herb mixture (about 1 tbsp.) over both sides of lamb chops.  Transfer lamb chops to a large plate, cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours. 

Place oil in a large skillet over high heat until pan is very hot.  Transfer lamb chops to skillet and sear on each side for 4-5 minutes, until brown and slightly crusty. (This may produce smoke, so use your exhaust fan!).  Transfer chops to platter and garnish with fresh mint sprigs.

Serves 2-3.

By Naomi Ross
 

 

 

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