He wipes his forehead, beads of sweat slowly building from the beaming sun above and sweltering smoke below. Another burger meets the grill. And another. The sizzle makes him crack a smile, as he knows that hungry bellies will be happy and sated soon. Good times. Family times…they keep him grilling.
That’s a lovely image. It sure would be a shame if he ruined those burgers. Dry and rubbery, hockey puck-like burgers are not the stuff great family memories are made of. A great burger, in all its perfect simplicity, is a beautiful thing – juicy, flavorful and satisfying. And hey, let’s face it: even if your company leaves something to be desired, at least you’ve been well fed! Albeit a commonplace American meal at this point, a hamburger is worth taking the time to do right.
A good burger is half about the burger and half about what you put on top of it. If the meat is the body of the burger, then the fixings – relishes, sauces, vegetables and the like – are its personality, the accessories which dress up and add style and flair to your meal.
The Burger
Some people try to gussy up their meat with all kinds of seasonings and spices. I prefer to let the true flavor of the meat speak for itself, adding few spices, if any. Fat plays a huge role in the flavor and juiciness of a good burger. Most grilling authorities recommend between 15-20% fat content which, for the kosher consumer, means either ground chuck (about 20%) or ground neck (about 15%). Extra lean ground beef (usually from the shoulder) may seem like a healthier choice, but does not contain enough fat to sufficiently lubricate the meat as it cooks and will end up producing a dry burger.
A hot, oiled grilled is the perfect place to cook a burger. Over high direct heat, a burger only takes about 4 minutes per side for medium (less if you like it rare). And even though the sound of grease meeting the fire is oh-so-thrilling, do your best to restrain yourself from pressing down on the meat – it’s a great way to squeeze out the juices and dry out your burger. Like a steak, once the burger comes off the grill, allow 2-3 minutes for the meat to rest so that the juices can settle back in. Then you can assume the creative task of dressing your burger.
The Fixings
Much like not wearing white after Labor Day, classic American sensibilities dictate that a hamburger comes with bun, lettuce, tomato, pickles and ketchup. Period. But in 2010, anything goes: Caramelized onions, grilled Portobellos, arugula, sweet chutneys, spicy relishes. Contrasting flavors and textures are what make the burger an open canvas, fully customizable. Yes, the burger is individualistic food, personal food. So this Fourth of July, go all out, change it up, and top it with the best…your best!
Lamb Burgers with Mint Chutney and Pickled Red Onions
Beef is so last year! Ground lamb has a flavor all its own and is the perfect match for mint – a refreshing burger!
Serves 6.
1 ¼ lb. ground lamb
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
¾ tsp. ground paprika
¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
Gently mix together all ingredients in a mixing bowl. Form the mixture into approximately 6 thick patties (about ¾” each). Do not over-handle.
Preheat your grill to high heat, and carefully oil the grates (a wad of oil-soaked paper towels and tongs work well for this job).
Place the patties on the grill. Grill for about 4 minutes per side, flipping once during grilling. Transfer to a plate and serve on a toasted bun with a spoonful of Mint Chutney and Picked Red onions on top.
Mint Chutney
1 cup packed mint leaves
1 shallot
1 large garlic clove
1 tbsp. sugar
2 tbsp. water
¼-½ tsp. red pepper flakes (or more if you like it hot!)
3 tbsp. lime juice (from about 1-2 limes)
1 tbsp. lemon juice (from about ½ lemon)
½ tsp. cumin
¾ tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. ground black pepper
¼ tsp ground ginger
Place all ingredients in a food processor. Process until fully blended. Season to taste.
Picked Red Onions
1 red onion (about 12 ounces), halved lengthwise, cut thinly crosswise
2 whole small jalapeños
2 cups seasoned rice vinegar
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon coarse kosher salt
Place onion and jalapeños in heatproof medium bowl. Mix vinegar, lime juice and salt in a small saucepan. Bring just to a boil, stirring until salt dissolves. Pour over onion and jalapeños. Let stand at room temperature at least 1 hour and up to 8 hours. This can be made 1 week ahead; cover and refrigerate.
Wishing you all a delicious and restful summer,
-Naomi Ross & the Park East Kosher Family
