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Taming Your Turkey: A Thanksgiving Guide

November 18th, 2010

My head is swimming with turkeys. Every magazine I open, every talk show…it’s all about the big T-day.  If turkey has become the all-American symbol for sustenance and gratitude, family times and comfort, then serving up a good turkey sure piles on the pressure!  Dried out, crusty white meat covered in gloppy, viscous gravy is not what warm and fuzzy Thanksgiving imagery is made of.    So much time and planning is spent on what often ends up being a meal you’d rather forget.  Don’t despair (or make reservations)!  Here’s a little Turkey 101, or more specifically Kosher Turkey 101 to ensure the kind of Thanksgiving you’re hoping to remember.   So grab a cup of tea, sit back and read on.

The Challenge

Thanksgiving guides are replete with Do’s and Don’ts, fancy equipment and paraphernalia, and charts (I love charts!) all dedicated to the noble task of producing a)an attractive bird with b)crispy skin and most importantly c)tender moist meat that is flavorful and juicy.  That is the goal, and not always an easily achievable one, as preparing a good turkey poses many challenges: First, it can have a bland flavor, often requiring a boost.  Second, there’s the technical issue that the white meat cooks faster than the dark meat, often resulting in a bird that is either dried out or raw. And finally, turkey roasts for a long time, so you’d better time it right — in time for dinner.

Planning Ahead (…Thanksgiving is in a week, so that means NOW!)

  • Get outfitted.  Don’t waste precious time trying to find the right equipment that will make your cooking go more smoothly on the day of (and running out to the market on Thanksgiving Day is never a good use of time or energy).  Here are a few items to consider using/purchasing/borrowing:
  • Heavy-duty roasting pan. While it’s true that a disposable roasting pan provides an easy clean-up, the benefits of a good heavy-duty roasting pan include better and more even conduction of heat as well as a terrifically easy way to deglaze the wonderful pan juices to make gravy (since the pan can go right on the fire).
  • U- or V-shaped roasting rack. This promotes an even circulation of heat around the meat and prevents the turkey from getting soggy after sitting in the pan juices.
  • Carving set. A good sharp carving knife will yield thin turkey slices (without shredding it to pieces) with ease.  A 2-pronged carving fork will hold that baby in place without slippage during carving.
  • Meat Thermometer. Cooking a turkey is not rocket science…but it is science.  Remove the guesswork by properly gauging temperature.  Your bird will give you a big, juicy “thank you”!  
  • Twine.  A sturdy cotton twine is useful to tie the legs together before roasting. Don’t forget to remove the string before serving.
  • Baster (optional).  A good baster enables you to quickly draw large quantities of liquid from the bottom of the roasting pan and release them on top of the bird before too much heat escapes from the oven; plus, it gives you a longer reach than a spoon, so you won’t burn yourself.
  • Fat Separator (Optional).  When making gravy, you’ll need to separate the fat from the pan juices. You can do this with a ladle, but this specially designed cup makes the process quick and easy with a low spout that allows you to pour off the liquid, leaving the fat behind.
  • Make a menu and cooking plan. It pays to be a little organized and spend 10 minutes now to save hours later.   First, make your menu and shopping lists.  Then spend another 5 minutes to organize the cooking tasks, starting from the day of Thanksgiving and then working backwards, breaking down and assigning tasks that can be done 1, 2, or more days in advance (….since most people can’t quit their jobs to prepare for a 3-hour meal).    If using a frozen bird, allow ample time for defrosting in the schedule (see below).

Preparing the bird

  • How big is big enough? As a general rule, purchase a turkey that is approximately 1 pound per person.  If leftovers are desired, then 1½ pounds per person (for example, a 12-14 lb. will feed 8).
  • Defrosting. If using a frozen bird, allow about 24 hours per 4-5 lbs. defrosting in your refrigerator (the USDA tells you not to leave it out on the counter to defrost), which means you’ll need 3-5 days depending on the size of the bird.  A cold water bath is a quicker method, but ice or new cold water must be added/replaced to maintain the cold temperature.
  • Cleaning the bird. The turkey should be washed inside and out, taking care to remove the neck/giblets from inside the cavity (and reserved for later use).  A sharp knife or tweezers is helpful in removing any leftover pinfeathers or quills.  Wash and pat dry with paper toweling.

Roasting with Flavor

There are many ways to boost moisture and flavor when roasting a turkey, but not all of them are necessarily applicable when roasting a kosher turkey.  Brining is a very popular method that uses a saltwater solution to ensure a full distribution of flavor…but the koshering process takes care of that for us, so we’re one step ahead.  Slathering butter all over the turkey skin (or underneath) is a great way of boosting moisture…but that’s not kosher.  Moving right along…

Some people inject their turkeys with some kind of fat, be it butter (not in our case), or olive oil.  I’m content with a good old spice or herb rub, which if applied in advance can act like a marinade.  In addition, I recommend stuffing the cavity not with stuffing (more on that in a minute), but rather with aromatics (like onion, herbs, lemon, etc.) that will help infuse flavor through circulation from the cavity while cooking.  You can try some or all of these methods and decide which suits you…or your turkey.

Stuffing and Trussing

There is nothing quite as good as stuffing made inside the bird, all soaked up with the turkey juices and fatty deliciousness. But the verdict has been out for some time now that stuffing cooked in the bird can present food safety issues as the stuffing is often not done when the meat is.  Additionally, the stuffing can throw off how evenly the meat is cooked, as it can restrict proper air circulation in the bird during the cooking process.    Bottom line recommendation: stuff your turkey with aromatics and make your stuffing separately, but do add in extra stock/rendered turkey fat to make up for the turkey juices it would have absorbed inside.

Once your bird is prepared, place on a rack in your roasting pan.  It is a good idea to tie the turkey’s legs together with kitchen twine, both for a nice neat appearance and also to keep inside whatever was intended to stay that way.

Roasting temperatures and times

Says the old adage “there are many ways to skin a cat”…or in this case – to roast a turkey.  To avoid having dried out white meat, many favor starting the cooking breast side down and then flipping it in the last hour or so to brown the breast.  If you have a very large Turkey, this may be somewhat impractical as it is cumbersome to accomplish.  In this case, tent foil over the turkey to protect the breast from the heat.  Then uncover for the last 30-60 minutes to brown and crisp the skin.  Some brown their skin at the start with a blast of high heat (say 450-500°) for about 30 minutes, and then lower the oven temperature to 325-350° for a slow and tender roasting.  Either way you choose, don’t be afraid to tent foil if the skin is browning to fast.  The turkey is done, according to the USDA, when it reaches an internal temperature of 165 degree Fahrenheit – take temperature in the thigh or under the wing.  Don’t forget: once the turkey is out of the oven, the internal temperature will continue to rise an additional 10-15 degrees when resting (so people who like a very juicy turkey might remove it a few degrees lower).

Size of Turkey: Roast Time: Temperature:
If your turkey weighs 12 to 14 pounds,
roast it for:		 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 hours
2 1/2 to 2 3/4 hours
2 3/4 to 3 hours
3 to 3 3/4 hours		 425°F
400°F
350°F
325°F
If your turkey weighs 15 to 16 pounds,
roast it for:		 3 to 3 1/4 hours
3 1/4 to 3 1/2 hours
3 1/2 to 3 3/4 hours
3 3/4 to 4 hours		 425°F
400°F
350°F
325°F
If your turkey weighs 18 to 20 pounds,
roast it for:		 3 1/2 to 3 3/4 hours
3 3/4 to 4 hours
4 to 4 1/4 hours
4 1/4 to 4 1/2 hours		 425°F
400°F
350°F
325°F
If your turkey weighs 21 to 22 pounds,
roast it for:		 4 to 4 1/4 hours
4 1/4 to 4 1/2 hours
4 1/2 to 4 3/4
4 3/4 to 5 hours		 425°F
400°F
350°F
325°F
If your turkey weighs 24 pounds,
roast it for:		 4 1/4 to 4 1/2 hours
4 1/2 to 4 3/4 hours
4 3/4 to 5 hours
5 to 5 1/4 hours		 425°F
400°F
350°F
325°F

To Baste or Not to Baste?

This has become quite a dispute, as traditional recipes always called for basting, a simple step of opening the oven to squirt the pan juices over the turkey.  The goal of basting is to help the browning and improve moisture.  Many argue that it is not necessary to baste a turkey that has been brined or injected with fat, especially since opening the oven door lowers the temperature and requires the bird to roast longer.   Since you probably aren’t doing these things anyway, basting can be helpful in replacing moisture to the skin, perhaps every 45 minutes throughout cooking.

Resting

Even if you’ve cooked your turkey to perfection, it would be a shame to needlessly dry out your turkey by carving before the bird has ample time to rest.  Give at least 20 minutes resting time to allow juices to settle back and reabsorb into the meat (turkey will stay hot while resting for up to 40 minutes, tented with foil).  Carving immediately will let the juices out…and they won’t come back!  In the meantime, you can make your gravy.

Gravy…The Finishing Touch

I never grew up eating thick turkey gravy.  My mother served the turkey with the delicious pan juices on the side. Ain’t nothin’ wrong with that.  But if your thanksgiving dreams are those made of thick, luscious gravy that blankets your turkey, read on.  Let’s break down basic pan gravy into steps:

  1. Pour off the pan juices into a measuring cup or fat separator.  Allow the juices to settle and spoon fat off the top (reserving fat)
  2. Pour the juices back into the pan and place the roasting pan over the burners on medium heat.  Add wine or stock (or both) and scrape up browned bits, dissolving them into the liquid.
  3. Thicken it.  Sprinkling flour or cornstarch will make lumpy, bumpy gravy.  How do you thicken without lumps? A roux is the most common method (although not the only one!): cook a little flour with an equal amount of fat until a paste forms and begins to brown.  Then pour in the wine/stock mixture and whisk until the roux dissolves and thickens the gravy.
  4. Season to taste with salt, pepper or other seasonings.

Once you know the basic steps, you can change the flavorings and get creative.

Armed with all this knowledge, it’s time to carve your turkey and serve it up with confidence and joy, knowing that we live in a country that actually has a holiday dedicated to the purpose of expressing gratitude for that which we have.  You have much to be grateful for, among them that your turkey is finally done and done well.

Herb-Roasted Turkey with Cider Gravy

Serves 8-10

12-14 lb. whole turkey

3 tbsp. fresh chopped sage, plus 2 sprigs for cavity

2 tbsp. fresh chopped thyme, plus 2 springs for cavity

2 tsp. dried crumbled rosemary

¼ cup minced parsley

1 ½ tsp. black pepper

¾ tsp. allspice

1/3 cup olive oil

2 apples, quartered

2 small onions, quartered

½ fennel bulb, cut in chunks

1 ½ cups apple cider

Cider Gravy

4 cups chicken or turkey stock

2 cups apple cider

1 shallot, minced

1/3 cup reserved turkey fat

1/3 cup flour

2 tbsp. apple liqueur

1 tsp. fresh minced thyme

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

For the Turkey:

Preheat oven to 350°.

Remove neck from cavity and reserve.  Rinse turkey inside and out.  Pat dry with paper towels.  Combine 3 tbsp. sage, 2 tbsp. thyme, rosemary, parsley, pepper, allspice and olive oil in a small bowl.  Mix to blend.  Rub herb paste all over turkey.  Stuff cavity with apples, onions, fennel and herb sprigs.  Tie legs together with twine.  Transfer to V- or U- rack in roasting pan, breast-side down.  Pour ½ cup apple cider into the bottom of the pan, add reserved neck and place in the oven for 45 minutes.  Pour additional ½ cup apple cider over turkey, basting all over.

Roast for another 1 ½ hours, basting every 45 minutes (tent with foil if getting too brown).  Carefully turn turkey over so that breast side is up.  Baste with pan juices (add additional ½ cup cider if pan is getting dry).   Continue to roast, basting occasionally, until internal temperature reaches 165° (tent with foil if getting too brown).   Remove from oven.  Tilt turkey downward so that the juices from the cavity run out into the pan. Transfer rack with turkey to a cutting board and allow to rest until serving time.

For the Gravy:

DO AHEAD: this can be started while turkey is cooking. :-)

Place stock and 2 cups cider in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer until mixture is reduced by almost half, about 20 minutes.

This next part has to wait for the turkey to be finished. :-(

Pour pan juices into a measuring cup or fat separator (discard neck).  Allow to settle, then spoon off fat into a separate cup.  Place roasting pan over 2 burners on medium heat.  Add 1/3 cup reserved fat back into the pan, add shallot and sauté for about 3-4 minutes.  Sprinkle flour into the pan.  Whisk until roux is light brown, about 2 minutes. Pour reserved pan juices, reduced cider-stock mixture, and liqueur into the pan, scraping up browned bits and whisking to blend until mixture is smooth.  Add thyme, salt and pepper, and continue to simmer until gravy is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 8-10 minutes. Season to taste and serve alongside turkey.

No thanksgiving menu is complete without a good recipe for yams to serve with your turkey – this one is my family’s favorite.

Maple Roasted Sweet Potatoes

Serves 4-6.

½ cup pure maple syrup

¼ cup dark brown sugar

¼ tsp. cinnamon

1 tbsp. dark rum

½ tsp. vanilla

3 large yams, scrubbed (not peeled), and thinly sliced about ¼ inch thick into disks.

1/3 cup olive oil

Kosher salt to taste (about 2-3 tsp.)

Freshly ground pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 425°.  Prepare two baking sheets, lined with tin foil.  Arrange racks in the upper third of the oven (closest to the heating element).

In a small bowl, combine maple syrup, brown sugar, cinnamon, rum, and vanilla.  Whisk to blend. Set aside.

Place sliced sweet potatoes on the baking sheets and spread evenly in a single layer.  Drizzle olive oil over the potatoes, then season liberally with salt and pepper.  Toss to coat.  Drizzle maple mixture over sweet potatoes and toss to coat. Spread out evenly again in a single layer and place in preheated oven.  Roast for about 20 minutes, tossing and turning to coat about every 6 or 7 minutes.  The sweet potatoes are done when they are tender, well glazed and slightly shriveled.  Remove from oven, transfer to a serving bowl and enjoy!

Have a Happy Thanksgiving!
-Naomi Ross and the Park East Kosher Family

By Naomi Ross

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In Search of a Kosher Philly Cheese Steak…Hold the cheese!

November 9th, 2010

Perched on my kitchen stool, I hunched ever so slightly over the latest issue of Bon Appetit. I could not help but salivate over a recipe that would soon be brimming on my stovetop. But as my eyes glanced down the ingredient list, I winced with disappointment while the mental debate ensued as to whether the dish could be made kosher. I mean, really, what can you substitute for clam juice? And of course the real underlying question: after all of the necessary substitutions are made, would it even be worth it after distorting the intended taste with so many replacement ingredients? Jewish cooks of yesteryear did not have such conflicts of interest. Many of the products we so commonly use today, like margarine or soymilk, either did not exist or were not readily available. But more than that, Jewish cooks were comfortable with their cuisine and cooking traditions, no matter what their nationality. Their food might have been Persian or Italian, but what defined their food as “Jewish” was that it was cooked in a kosher way – it was guided more by mitzvot than ethnicity. Modern kosher cooking has changed drastically over the past quarter century. With more exotic kosher foods available than ever before and the massively popular cooking shows and print media, it is easy to become a “foodie.” It is exciting to experience new tastes and aromas and to explore different flavors.  But for a purist like myself, I have to wonder if having the faux-cheese on my burrito is actually satisfying or just a sad attempt to feel as though we can eat anything we want and still remain within the bounds of Torah law.  As a general rule, I try to stay away from such compromises, especially since substitutions often involve artificial ingredients and unhealthy fats. The fresher and more natural the ingredients, the better your food will taste.  And though I suppose we all make concessions now and then, when in search of a kosher Philly Cheese Steak sandwich, I opted for a Philly Cheese-less Steak sandwich without hesitation.  A different animal, but kosher and delicious all the same. 

The key to kosher “substitutions” or just plain doing without, is in knowing how to sufficiently build and intensify flavors in other ways.  In this particular case, it is essential to use a tender well-marbled meat (I used shell steak, but rib-eye is also a great choice).  Caramelizing sweet onions and peppers with additional spices also boosts flavor.  The natural juices are fantastic to savor…even without the cheese whiz.

Kosher Philly Steak Sandwiches

Paper-thin slices can be prepared in advance by Park East Kosher upon request.  If slicing your own, simply freeze the meat, thaw halfway and then shave off slices with a sharp carving knife – works like a charm!

 Serves 4-6.

3 tbsp. olive oil

1 large Vidalia onion, quartered and thinly sliced

1 green bell pepper, seeded and cut into 2” thin strips

1 sweet red pepper, seeded and cut into 2” thin strips

1 tsp. salt

½ tsp. coriander

½ tsp. cumin

Plenty of freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 tbsp. canola or vegetable oil

1 ½ lbs. shell steak (or rib eye steak), sliced paper thin and seasoned lightly with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 crusty Italian sub or hoagie rolls

Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat.   Add the sliced onion and peppers and sauté for about 5-6 minutes, until onion becomes translucent.   Add all the spices, stir to blend and continue to sauté for another 6-7 minutes, or until onions become a golden brown color.    Transfer mixture to a bowl and add 1 tbsp. canola oil to the hot pan.   Place pieces of shaved steak in a single layer on the bottom of the pan.  Sear for 1 minute, turn over and sear for another minute.  Transfer to a separate bowl and repeat with remaining steak.    Slice hoagie rolls almost in half (leaving the two halves connected) and toast lightly, if desired.  Fill with pieces of seared steak slices and top with caramelized onion-pepper mixture.

*If making in advance of serving time, the steak sandwich can be reheated – assembled and wrapped in foil in a hot oven.

  

By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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Beyond Fish Sticks

November 3rd, 2010

No matter how good a cook you are, how apt you may be in the kitchen or how successfully you entertain, there is nothing quite as challenging (or humbling!) as getting your kids to eat new things.   I may be able to flambé, puree, and poach with ease, but get my five-year old, with raised eyebrows and arms crossed, to consider a dinner other than grilled cheese: that, my friends, is tough.

Surely, the exhaustion that follows the nightly struggles with a “picky eater” can leave a parent frustrated and dejected.  For if the job of a parent is to care about what your child eats, then it’s the job of a child to wear a parent down until you find yourself wondering “would it be so bad if I just gave in and made my kids macaroni every night?  C’mon, what would be so wrong with that?!”  Such were the thoughts that went through my mind the other night when defending a delicious chicken dinner.  Then my sanity returned.   With renewed conviction, I reminded myself that balanced nutrition and a healthy exposure to different foods were things worth fighting for.    

Food Neophobia, a reluctance to try new foods, is common in young children.  Up until age 2, most toddlers are open to trying new foods; but as children begin to become more independent, with greater control over what they put in their mouths, most kids experience some neophobia.  Some aversions may be attributed to sensory issues (as a child, I hated tomatoes because they were “slimy”), but new research has found that other taste preferences may be hardwired genetically.  “How much a person prefers sweet and dislikes bitter,” writes Cynthia Sass, M.P.H., R.D, “depends partly upon the number of taste buds and the type of taste receptors he or she inherits….Some people inherit genes for taste receptors that are acutely sensitive to bitterness” (EatingWell Magazine, Feb. 2007).  And that sensitivity might get in the way of consuming some of the healthiest foods associated with cancer and cardiovascular disease prevention, such as Brussels sprouts or kale or even grapefruit.  

Research scientists and nutritionists stress that there are a number of strategies parents can employ to overcome neophobic behavior.

  • DON’T GIVE UP!  It can take 10-15 tastes before a child can learn to appreciate a new flavor (case in point – by the end of a year in Israel exposed to a barrage of Israeli salad, I had become a tomato fan).   Start introducing tastes early – the younger, the better.
  • Try turning tasting sessions into a game as encouragement to try new foods.  Punishing for not eating green beans may be effective in the short term, but will not produce a vegetable lover! 
  • When introducing new or “challenging” foods with your kids, prepare them with sweet or intense flavors.  For example, baked fish is much more appetizing with teriyaki sauce; sauté spinach with something sweet like raisins and pine nuts or sweet roasted red peppers in order to make it less bitter to their palates.
  • Get your kids involved!  A trip to the supermarket to pick a “new” vegetable or ingredient will rouse their interest and might be just what’s needed to inspire more open eating, as well as empower them to feel that they too are a part of meal-time decisions.  If they can’t shop with you, then find ways of involving them in the preparation.  Cooking together is a great way of getting kids excited about what they are going to eat. 
  • Start small and work your way up! If your children won’t eat vegies, then it would be unrealistic to expect them to get excited over Brussels sprouts the first time around.  Start by introducing unfamiliar foods in a familiar way.  If pasta is a staple, try introducing sweet (less bitter) vegetables into the background.  Reintroduce it again in other subtle ways until it is no longer foreign.   If they develop an appreciation of the food, move on to something bigger.
  • When all else fails, the cardinal rule of feeding kids applies: if you fry it, they will eat it!  Kids love the crunchy feel of fried foods, however unhealthy they may be.  As a general rule though, I save this as a last resort or as a treat.

 

Even with these suggestions, some of my children would still be thrilled if they could have a diet of nothing but noodles.  And frankly, if I really discovered the secret to getting kids to eat, I’d be awarded the Nobel Prize.   That there is no magic pill may be true, but by encouraging a diverse diet and exposing them to new tastes, I have to believe that they will one day reap the rewards of both good health and an appreciation of the wonderful world of food that G-d created for them.  At the very least, it’s positive for them to see their parents trying new and interesting things – after all, the best way to teach is by example.

The following recipe was created with my “anti-meat” children in mind.  Many thanks to Mordechai, Sasha and her friend Shani for being taste-testers – it must have been good if she asked for some to take home!

Oven-Fried “Lollipop” Chicken

A little less caloric than classic fried chicken, this oven-fried recipe still yields a flavorful crispy crust.

 

Yield: 12 “lollipops”

12 chicken drumsticks

5 slices rye bread or French bread, crusts removed (makes about 3 cups crumbs)

1 large clove garlic

½ cup fresh parsley leaves, packed

½ tsp. kosher salt

½ tsp. ground black pepper

¼ tsp. cayenne pepper

1/3 cup Dijon mustard

¼ cup honey (scant)

1 tbsp. margarine, melted

1-2 tbsp. olive oil

Preheat oven to 425°.  Prepare a rimmed baking sheet with foil and grease with non-stick spray. 

Push the skin and flesh up to the nub of each drumstick, leaving the bone exposed (a natural handle) – a sharp paring knife may be helpful for this or you can ask your butcher to prepare them for you.

Place bread in bowl of food processor and pulse a few times to break up the bread slices.  Add the garlic, parsley, salt and peppers.  Pulse until coarse crumbs are formed, and the garlic and parsley are processed and distributed.  Transfer to mixing bowl.  Toss with melted margarine. 

In a separate small bowl, mix together mustard and honey until well blended.  Dip each drumstick in the honey-mustard mixture, and roll in breadcrumb mixture, pressing the breading onto the drumstick to adhere.   Place each drumstick in the prepared pan.  Drizzle with olive oil.  Bake for 20-25 minutes, turning drumsticks over halfway through baking time.

Serve hot and enjoy!
Naomi Ross and the Park East Kosher Family
By Naomi Ross

 

 

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IN PRAISE OF THE BRAISE, PART II: SLOW COOKING MAGIC!

October 24th, 2010

When the Crock-Pot was invented in Missouri in 1960, no one could have foreseen how great the impact of this modern day slow-cooker would be.  It changed the way many women cooked, allowing them to easily prepare early in the day and have a hot dinner magically awaiting them upon their return, hours later!   Indeed, it was a woman’s dream and freed up much time spent at the stove.  From stews to chili, pot roasts to soups, the slow-cooker has enabled the working person to serve up home-cooked food while putting in a full day at the office.  Interestingly, the Crock-pot also transformed the way Jewish women prepared their weekly Shabbat cholent, a dish that was traditionally made and left in the oven or on the stovetop overnight; nowadays, it is pretty much exclusively prepared in a crock-pot.

With slight variation, most slow cooker recipes are quite simple: dump, cover, go!  This simple formula notwithstanding, crock-pot cookery recipes abound, displaying an incredible amount of creativity and ingenuity for what is mostly a hands-off cooking experience.  With that said, here are some helpful guidelines to ensure good crockery cooking:

  • What the crock-pot does best is braising – cooking a food (usually meat or vegetables) in a small amount of liquid at low heat for a lengthy period of time. The long, slow cooking develops flavor and tenderizes foods by gently breaking down their fibers.  The point being:  tough cuts of meat benefit the most from braising (some examples would include flanken, brisket, and shin meat).
  • A tight-fitting lid is very important to prevent the liquid from evaporating. Some people even close the lid over a piece of parchment paper to create a better seal.
  • To brown or not to brown?  Though many crock-pot recipes call for browning the meat as is classically done when braising (see last week’s article!) prior to slow cooking, many do not.  The benefit is that the meat develops more depth of flavor.   Generally, this is a matter of personal preference.  However, browning is a must with ground meat, and enables one to reduce the fat by draining after browning.
  • Spray the inside of your crock-pot with non-stick cooking spray for an easier clean up.
  • Most crock-pots come with low or high settings, allowing YOU to control the cooking time based on your own schedule.  High will cook faster, low will cook slower. The average cooking time for slow cooker recipes ranges between 4-10 hours.  Some slow-cookers have a “warm” setting, helpful for keeping food hot after cooking has completed.

 

With cooler nights upon us, what better way to warm up than by coming home to a hearty stew of Braised Lamb Shanks with Root Vegetables?  Prepare in the morning and forget about it till dinnertime!

Braised Lamb Shanks with Root Vegetables

Serve over a bed of Basmati rice or couscous.

Ingredients

 

1 Tbsp. olive oil

5 meaty lamb shanks

1 large onion, thinly sliced

3 large carrots, peeled and cut in 1” chunks

1 fennel bulb, fronds and stalks discarded, halved and sliced crosswise

1 celery stalk, sliced

1 medium potato, peeled and cut into 1” chunks

2 parsnips, peeled and cut into 1” chunks

5 cloves garlic, minced

2 tsp. kosher salt or more to taste

¾ tsp. ground black pepper or more to taste

1½ tsp. dried rosemary

1½ tsp. dried thyme

3 Tbsp. flour

3 Tbsp. tomato paste

¼ cup orange juice

2 cups dry white wine

½ cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable stock

¾ tsp. grated orange zest (optional)

Heat olive oil in a large skillet over high heat.  Sear the shanks on both sides until golden brown, about 3-4 minutes per side.  Transfer to the slow-cooker bowl.  Add onion, carrots, fennel, celery, potato, parsnips, and garlic to the bowl.  Combine remaining ingredients in a small bowl, mixing to blend and dissolve flour.  Pour mixture over lamb and vegetables.  Cover with lid.  Place bowl in slow cooker and turn on “low” setting.  Cook for 8-9 hours.  Skim off fat if necessary, and season to taste with salt and pepper.  

Serves 4-6.

Naomi Ross and the Park East Kosher Family
By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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In Praise of the Braise

October 20th, 2010

When we turned on the heat this past week, the new reality of the cooler weather began to sink in…to my cold hands and feet, that is.  As everyone knows, we are creatures impacted by the seasons, and this applies to our cooking as well.  So it was a natural response when, asked by a friend what recipes I was working on, that I dismissively replied, “recipes for the ‘Braising Season.’”

“The WHAT season?  What was that you said?”

Braising.  Simply put, the perfect cooking antidote for cold wintry nights, bound to warm the body and soul.  Or, if you are looking for a real definition:  Braising is a cooking technique in which the main ingredient is seared, or browned in fat, and then simmered in liquid on low heat in a covered pot.  Also known as “pot-roasting,” this is an essential technique for yielding succulent, tender results from otherwise tough cuts of meat.   By slowly simmering the meat in liquid (often wine or stock), the connective tissue found in more economical cuts of meat (parts of the animal that were well exercised) breaks down and melts into the fabulously flavorful cooking liquid which in turn helps to tenderize the muscle fibers.  The cuts of meat that benefit the most from this cooking method include: brisket, shanks, kolichel and short ribs; however, chicken (bone-in), firm-fleshed fish and vegetables can also benefit from this method with mouth-watering results. 

Beyond the amazing aroma that will fill your home when braising (and jealous neighbors wishing they were eating at your house for dinner!), there’s also some practical benefits to mention.  First of all, one-pot cooking means less clean-up.  Braising is also pretty much hands-off once the meat has been seared and the cooking has commenced.  This means your dinner can be prepared hours in advance and your hands are free to do other things while it cooks away.  

Braising can be done stove-top or in the oven.  I favor a combination of the two – browning the meat stove-top to start, then transferring to the oven for the majority cooking time.  With this approach, a pot that is both stove and oven friendly is particularly helpful – a Dutch oven or LeCrueset type of covered enameled pot/casserole will be great for this.

Comforting and homey, a pot roast will satisfy on the coldest winter night, transporting you back to your grandmother’s kitchen.  In recent years though, some braises have taken the front and center at high-end restaurants.   Here is my take on Braised Short Ribs – perfect for an intimate dinner or a crowd, this rich dish can be prepared in advance if desired.

Braised Short Ribs with Port and Pomegranate Sauce

Serve over a bed of mashed potatoes or parsnips.

Serves 4-6.

2 tbsp. olive oil

4- 4½ pounds beef short ribs

1 cup chopped carrots

1 cup chopped onion

1 cup chopped celery

8 garlic cloves, minced

¾ tsp. kosher salt

½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1 ½ cups dry red wine (Cabernet or Merlot)

2/3 cup Port

1½ cups (12 oz.) crushed tomatoes 

1 cup low-sodium chicken or beef stock

5 tbsp. pomegranate molasses

1 tbsp. honey (or more to taste)

1 bay leaf

2 tbsp. minced parsley or more for garnishing

Preheat oven to 350°F.  Heat oil in a heavy, large, oven-safe pot or casserole dish, over high heat.  Sprinkle ribs with salt and pepper.  Working in batches, brown ribs, turning occasionally, about 3 minutes per side.  Transfer to plate and set aside.  Lower heat to medium-high.  Add carrots, onion, and celery to the pot.  Season with ¾ tsp. salt and ½ tsp. black pepper.  Sauté for about 5-8 minutes, or until vegetables become tender, stirring occasionally.   Add garlic, stir to blend, and cook for another 3 minutes.  Add red wine, and bring to a boil, stirring and scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.  Add Port, tomatoes, broth, pomegranate molasses, honey and bay leaf, and stir to blend.  Bring back to a boil, and simmer for about 6-8 minutes and until mixture is slightly thickened.  Return ribs to the pot, and boil for about 5 minutes.  Cover and transfer to oven.  Bake until meat almost falls off bone, stirring occasionally, about 2 hours.

Skim off excess fat from surface if necessary.  Using tongs, transfer ribs to a large bowl.  Return pot to stove over low heat.  Season to taste, adding more salt, pepper or honey if necessary.  Add minced parsley and simmer cooking liquid until slightly reduced, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes.  Remove from heat and top ribs with sauce.  Sprinkle more minced parsley to garnish, if desired.

Naomi Ross and the Park East Kosher Family
By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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“Fast” Meals

September 14th, 2010

Over the course of the Jewish year, there is no dearth of food-related ideas to write about.  In fact, considering how central food is to Jewish observances and lifecycles, I rarely find myself lacking in material.   There’s always another holiday coming up, and always the need for what-to-serve, what-to-eat.  But Yom Kippur, the Day of Atonement is the biggest fast day of the year.  It’s not about food. Come this Friday night, Jews all over the world will stop eating and drinking for a day (that alone is something to write about!)   But Yom Kippur is not about fasting either; It’s about rising above the absence of food, and all the distractions in order to connect and think and pray.

It’s hard for us to celebrate without food to mark the occasion.  Consider the “seudat hamafseket” (the last meal preceding the fast of Yom Kippur).    I always find this to be the most conflicted meal of the year – highly functional while at the same time festive and yet also in keeping with the seriousness of the day.   Go try to put that into a menu – it’s slightly paradoxical, from a cook’s perspective anyhow.      The meal needs to be homey and satisfying, without spiciness; sweet and celebratory, with solemnity.  It needs to be a meal that ends with contentedness, knowing that we’ve eaten all that we want so that we no longer have to, and no longer need to.  At that point we can go into Yom Kippur prepared and ready to focus on the meaning of the day.

You’re of course wondering then, well what do we eat?  (It always seems to come back to that, doesn’t it?)  I recommend this fruity, tangy chicken recipe, smothered in sauce over a bed of mashed potatoes.  The following dish is simple to prepare, and the sauce can even be prepared a day ahead.  Serve with green beans and a nice salad and don’t forget to drink lots of water.     

Fresh Apricot and Orange Chicken

12 oz. jar orange marmalade

4 fresh apricots, pitted and sliced

¼ cup white wine

Juice of 1 lime

¼ tsp. ground ginger

1 whole chicken (4 lbs.), cut into 1/8ths

¾ tsp. garlic powder

Kosher salt, to taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. 

Place first five ingredients in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer.  Simmer for about 10 minutes, until apricots are very tender and sauce has slightly thickened.  Remove from heat and set aside.

Rinse chicken parts and pat dry.  Place chicken in a roasting pan and sprinkle with garlic powder, kosher salt and black pepper.  Pour sauce over chicken.  Bake uncovered for about 1¼-1½ hours, until chicken is nicely browned and sauce is bubbly.   

Wishing you an easy and meaningful fast,

Naomi Ross and the Park East Kosher Family
By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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FIGS FOREVER

September 7th, 2010

Searching the markets for this year’s “new fruit,” an object to be sanctified and enjoyed by many on Rosh Hashanah, is always an adventure.  Unfortunately, it is often an anticlimactic experience for me.  Much as I enjoy scouting out the exotic cherimoya (out of season and unripe this time of year) or the much sought after star fruit (which looks much cooler than it tastes), I often end up with a misunderstood fruit that commanded a misunderstood price at the center of my holiday table (or likely later in my holiday garbage).   And so, each year I return to the aisles in anticipation of finding that fruit which marks the newness that Rosh Hashanah is all about…and secretly hope that it will taste good, too.

But this year is different.  This year is sweet with inspiration.  I didn’t have to look to the far ends of the earth to find a fruit pregnant with newness; I had only to look in my own backyard – my own Biblical backyard, that is.   This summer, I enjoyed many walks and hikes in Israel, and was frequently reminded of the “shivat haminim” (the seven species including wheat, barley, grapes, figs, pomegranates, olives and dates) which the Torah declares are abundant in the Land of Israel.  And indeed they are.   One of my favorites is the fig.  The plump beauties I encountered on my trip bore no resemblance to the crusty, dried Tu B”shvat specimens of my youth.  Dark and dull on the outside, you only had to pull them apart to reveal the rosy-red juiciness that lies within, the myriad internal flowers that are the actual fruit.   It says in the Talmud that Torah is like a fig tree, which has fruit at various stages of ripening; the longer one works at it, the more one finds.  This idea gave me much hope – that each day there is something new to learn, ripe for the picking and filled with blossoms of potential.  That’s an idea to start the New Year with.  That’s a newness to bless.  Move over cherimoya…the fig is back.

Figs are not only delicious to snack on, though; they also lend a terrific element to cooked dishes.  Figs possess a delicate flavor that can add depth and sweetness to your holiday cooking.   Pairing veal with fresh figs worked wonderfully for me when developing the following holiday recipe, infusing the meat with subtle fruitiness.  I hope your guests with think so too.

Roast Veal with Muscato-Fig Reduction 

Serves 6.

A meat thermometer is an invaluable tool in determining perfectly cooked meat.  Be sure to use one in this recipe for perfectly moist veal.

 

  • 1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
  • ½ small fennel bulb, trimmed and chopped (a scant cup)
  • 4 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
  • 1 shallot, chopped
  • 2 tbsp. olive oil, divided
  • 1 3½ lb. veal shoulder roast
  • ¼ cup honey
  • 10 fresh black mission figs, halved
  • 1 cup Muscato (sweet white wine)
  • ¼ cup beef or chicken stock
  • 2 tsp. cornstarch (optional)
  • Kosher salt and Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

 

Preheat oven to 450°F.  Place chopped onion, fennel, garlic, and shallot in the bottom of a medium roasting pan (large enough to fit a rack).  Season with salt and pepper and toss with 1 tbsp. olive oil.  Place rack over vegetables.  Rub remaining tbsp. oil all over the veal roast and season liberally with salt and pepper.  Place roast on the rack.  Place pan in oven and roast for 10 minutes, until browned.  Turn roast over and repeat for an additional 10 minutes.  Remove pan from the oven and reduce oven to 325°.  Drizzle honey over roast and add figs and wine to the bottom of the pan.  Cover with tented foil and return to oven.  Bake for 1 ½ hours or until meat thermometer reaches 155 degrees internally.

Remove from oven and transfer veal and rack from pan to a platter or cutting board.  While veal rests, pour the contents of the bottom of the pan through a sieve set over a small saucepan.  Reserve the figs and set aside.  Press the vegetables against the sieve to release any additional liquid into the saucepan.  Discard vegetables.  

Place saucepan over medium heat, add stock, and bring to a simmer.  Reduce liquid by half, about 15 minutes (sauce should thicken to syrupy consistency – if sauce is too thin, pour off a small amount into a cup, dissolve cornstarch into the liquid and add back into the sauce.  Stir until thickened.).

Slice veal into thin slices, and place onto platter.  Pour sauce over veal (or serve on the side in a gravy boat) and garnish with reserved cooked figs. 

Just when you thought Rosh Hashanah couldn’t get any sweeter, here’s a bonus recipe incorporating another of the “seven species” into the menu, one that is also one of the symbolic foods eaten on Rosh Hashanah: dates.  Two symbolic fruits for the price of one!

On Rosh Hashanah night, we eat dates because the Hebrew word for date is “tamar”, which sounds similar to “tamu”, to consume.  We pray that G-d will consume our enemies and grant us all a very sweet New Year.

Orange-Scented Date Crumb Bars

If you weren’t a date-lover before, you will be after these treats.  Perfect for dessert or tea, these bars are great anytime.

  1. 1 1/4 cups water
  2. ¼ cup triple-sec or orange flavored liquor
  3. ½ tsp. grated orange peel (optional)
  4. 1 1/2 cups chopped pitted Medjool dates (about 10 oz.)
  5. 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  6. 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  7. ¾ cup (packed) dark brown sugar
  8. 1 cup old-fashioned oats
  9. 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  10. 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
  11. 1/2 teaspoon salt
  12. ¼ tsp. cloves
  13. ¼ tsp. allspice
  14. 3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter or margarine, diced, room temperature
  15. ½ cup toasted chopped pecans

Preheat oven to 350°F.  Grease an 8×8-inch metal baking pan.  Bring water, liquor, and orange peel to simmer in medium saucepan.  Add dates and simmer until very soft and thick, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes.  Stir in vanilla.  Cool to room temperature.

Combine flour, brown sugar, oats, cinnamon, baking soda, salt, cloves and allspice in large bowl.  Stir to blend.  Add butter.  Using fingertips, rub the butter into the mixture until moist clumps form. Press half of oat mixture evenly over bottom of prepared pan.  Spread date mixture on top.  Mix chopped pecans into remaining half of oat mixture, then sprinkle the mixture on top of the dates.  Press gently.  Bake until brown at edges and golden brown and set in center, about 40 minutes.  Cool completely in pan on a cooling rack.  Cut into bars and serve.

 

Wishing you a Happy and Healthy New Year,

Naomi Ross and the Park East Kosher Family

 

By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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TOPS FOR THE 4TH

June 29th, 2010

He wipes his forehead, beads of sweat slowly building from the beaming sun above and sweltering smoke below.  Another burger meets the grill.  And another.  The sizzle makes him crack a smile, as he knows that hungry bellies will be happy and sated soon.   Good times.  Family times…they keep him grilling.

That’s a lovely image.  It sure would be a shame if he ruined those burgers.  Dry and rubbery, hockey puck-like burgers are not the stuff great family memories are made of.  A great burger, in all its perfect simplicity, is a beautiful thing – juicy, flavorful and satisfying.  And hey, let’s face it: even if your company leaves something to be desired, at least you’ve been well fed!  Albeit a commonplace American meal at this point, a hamburger is worth taking the time to do right.

A good burger is half about the burger and half about what you put on top of it.   If the meat is the body of the burger, then the fixings – relishes, sauces, vegetables and the like – are its personality, the accessories which dress up and add style and flair to your meal.

The Burger

Some people try to gussy up their meat with all kinds of seasonings and spices.    I prefer to let the true flavor of the meat speak for itself, adding few spices, if any.   Fat plays a huge role in the flavor and juiciness of a good burger.   Most grilling authorities recommend between 15-20% fat content which, for the kosher consumer, means either ground chuck (about 20%) or ground neck (about 15%).   Extra lean ground beef (usually from the shoulder) may seem like a healthier choice, but does not contain enough fat to sufficiently lubricate the meat as it cooks and will end up producing a dry burger.

A hot, oiled grilled is the perfect place to cook a burger.   Over high direct heat, a burger only takes about 4 minutes per side for medium (less if you like it rare).   And even though the sound of grease meeting the fire is oh-so-thrilling, do your best to restrain yourself from pressing down on the meat – it’s a great way to squeeze out  the juices and dry out your burger.  Like a steak, once the burger comes off the grill, allow 2-3 minutes for the meat to rest so that the juices can settle back in.    Then you can assume the creative task of dressing your burger.

The Fixings

Much like not wearing white after Labor Day, classic American sensibilities dictate that a hamburger comes with bun, lettuce, tomato, pickles and ketchup.   Period.   But in 2010, anything goes:  Caramelized onions, grilled Portobellos, arugula, sweet chutneys, spicy relishes.   Contrasting flavors and textures are what make the burger an open canvas, fully customizable.  Yes, the burger is individualistic food, personal food.    So this Fourth of July, go all out, change it up, and top it with the best…your best!

Lamb Burgers with Mint Chutney and Pickled Red Onions

Beef is so last year!  Ground lamb has a flavor all its own and is the perfect match for mint – a refreshing burger!

Serves 6.

1 ¼ lb. ground lamb

½ tsp. ground cinnamon

¾ tsp. ground paprika

¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Gently mix together all ingredients in a mixing bowl.  Form the mixture into approximately 6 thick patties (about ¾” each).  Do not over-handle.

Preheat your grill to high heat, and carefully oil the grates (a wad of oil-soaked paper towels and tongs work well for this job).

Place the patties on the grill.  Grill for about 4 minutes per side, flipping once during grilling.   Transfer to a plate and serve on a toasted bun with a spoonful of Mint Chutney and Picked Red onions on top.

Mint Chutney

1 cup packed mint leaves

1 shallot

1 large garlic clove

1 tbsp. sugar

2 tbsp. water

¼-½ tsp. red pepper flakes (or more if you like it hot!)

3 tbsp. lime juice (from about 1-2 limes)

1 tbsp. lemon juice (from about ½ lemon)

½ tsp. cumin

¾ tsp. kosher salt

½ tsp. ground black pepper

¼ tsp ground ginger

Place all ingredients in a food processor.  Process until fully blended.  Season to taste.

Picked Red Onions

1 red onion (about 12 ounces), halved lengthwise, cut thinly crosswise

2 whole small jalapeños

2 cups seasoned rice vinegar

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon coarse kosher salt
Place onion and jalapeños in heatproof medium bowl. Mix vinegar, lime juice and salt in a small saucepan. Bring just to a boil, stirring until salt dissolves. Pour over onion and jalapeños. Let stand at room temperature at least 1 hour and up to 8 hours. This can be made 1 week ahead; cover and refrigerate.

Wishing you all a delicious and restful summer,

-Naomi Ross & the Park East Kosher Family

By Naomi Ross

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Summer’s Bounty

June 24th, 2010

It’s easy to get really spoiled in the spring and summertime…with things that grow, I mean.    After a long winter of tasteless tomatoes that were grown long ago and far away, stockpiled in a supermarket where the bland, waxed apples reign supreme, my taste buds nearly go into shock with the first bold taste of spring.   Nothing beats a seasonally ripe strawberry in all its sweet glory, its fragrance still lingering in the air even after the last bite – nothing, except perhaps a freshly picked ripe strawberry. 

I admit it.  I’ve been particularly spoiled in this way over the past 2 years.  Come spring and summer, about half of the produce finding its way to our table has either been grown in our own home garden, or from our CSA.  CSA stands for Community Supported Agriculture, a growing trend in America modeled after the successful European farming cooperative initiatives.   In a CSA, local farms are supported by “shareholders” who have purchased a share of what will be grown on the farm that week.  Most farms offering CSA programs practice organic and/or  sustainable farming techniques.  Each week, I am delighted (and often surprised!) by the adventure of what I’ll find in my CSA box, some of which is not even available at your average supermarket: crisp, flavorful greens;  sweet heirloom varieties of beets and tomatoes; squash in all sizes and shapes.  It’s all simply fantastic.  Sound fun?  You can find a CSA near you at http://www.localharvest.org/csa

Farmers’ markets are another great way of accessing locally grown produce at the height of the season.  You’ll be amazed at the variety and the freshness, and you’ll probably learn a lot, too…especially if you snag a chef and follow his lead!  You can find a list of farmers’ markets near you at http://www.localharvest.org/farmers-markets.

Between my CSA and our garden, my own cooking has changed quite a bit as well.  Instead of letting my menu dictate my shopping list, I now let my ingredients dictate what I’ll be cooking…a refreshing and redemptive change.   If you’re brave-hearted enough to let go and make that jump, it’s hard to go back.  The following soup was created with a surplus of Toscano Kale.  Tuscano Kale is a super-tasty Italian variety of Kale (a type of cabbage), sometimes referred to as Black Kale, Dinosaur Kale, Palm Tree Kale or Lacinato Kale.  It’s packed with vitamins (more A, K and C than you’ll find just about anywhere) and flavor.  If you can’t find it in anywhere, you can use regular Kale in its place, although not with the same results.  With a hunk of crusty bread, I find it to be a perfect lunch or dinner appetizer.   I hope you’ll think so, too.

Hearty Kale & White Bean Soup

Using a turkey leg lends excellent flavor to this soup’s broth.   If preparing your own white beans, be sure to soak them for several hours or overnight prior to cooking them.

 

Serves 6.

2 tbsp. olive oil

1 large turkey leg

1 large onion, chopped (about 2 cups)

1 large carrot, peeled and diced

2 stalks celery, sliced

2 small potatoes, peeled and diced

½ tsp. kosher salt

3 garlic cloves, minced

6 cups vegetable broth or water

2 ½ cups cooked small white beans (a scant 1½ cans)

1 bunch Toscano Kale, center stem removed and leaves cut into 2 inch strips

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat oil in a large soup pot over high heat.  Place turkey leg in pot and sear on both sides, until browned, about 2 minutes per side.  Remove the turkey leg and reduce heat to medium-high.  Add onions, carrot, celery and potatoes, stirring to coat, and scraping up any browned bits.  Season with ½ tsp. salt, and sauté until just tender, about 7-8 minutes.  Add garlic and sauté another 1-2 minutes.   Add broth or water and return to a boil.

Add the white beans, kale and seared turkey leg to the pot.  Stir to blend and reduce heat to low.   Simmer covered for about 25-30 minutes.  Remove turkey leg from the pot, and dice up the meat from the leg.   Return diced turkey meat to the pot.   Adjust the thickness of soup if necessary with additional broth or water.   Season to taste with plenty of kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.    Serve hot and enjoy!

By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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One Kebab, Two kebab…

June 8th, 2010

Few people can resist the allure of open fire cooking.  The scent of caramelizing  juices rising up under your nose is enough to awaken man’s primeval roots.  Where smoky charring flavors meld with the subtle sweetness of delicately spiced meats: that is a meal worth breaking a sweat over.  Put it all on a skewer and the possibilities become endless.   

Shish kebab, literally “skewer” and “roasted meat” in Turkish, may have gotten its start by nomads skewering meat on their swords for a quick and inventive meal, but over time have impacted cooking traditions around the world, from Persia to Japan to India to the United States.   Traditionally, shish kebab are made with cubes of lamb that have been seasoned and marinated.  The speed at which the small pieces of meat cook make for a 10-minute meal-in-one, especially if you throw some vegetables on your stick, too.   Nowadays, whether fish is your fancy or a fruited kebab for dessert, there is no limit to how creative you can get.  Be sure to keep the following top five Do’s in mind when ”kebab-ing” (anything can be a verb, you know! ):

  • DO prepare pieces of meat/vegetables in uniform size pieces – about 1-2 inches to ensure even cooking.
  • DO choose bold flavors in your marinade or herb rub.
  • DO pair vegetables/fruits with similar cooking times to the meat (i.e. onions, peppers, cherry tomatoes, pineapple work well.   Hard vegetables like potatoes or carrots should be parboiled first).
  • DO soak wooden skewers for at least 20-30 minutes before threading and grilling to prevent catching fire on the grill.
  • DO oil your grill first to prevent sticking.

Admittedly a “newbie” to Indian food, I was recently introduced to a whole new world of vibrant flavors and tastes at a kosher Indian restaurant in NYC.    Ever since that memorable meal, Indian spices and ingredients seem to be finding their way into my home cooking, for example in the following Indian-inspired kebab recipe.   

A spicy Tamarind dipping sauce is the perfect complement to these kebabs.   Also known as Indian date, the tamarind is the fruit of a tall shade tree native to Asia and northern Africa and widely grown in India.  Available in Middle Eastern or Indian markets, tamarind paste is the extracted sweet and sour pulp found in the tamarind pod…and quite possibly my new favorite ingredient!

 

 

 

Indian Kebabs with Spicy Tamarind Dipping Sauce

Chicken or Turkey Kebabs work well in this recipe and come already cut and  skewered from Park East Kosher both in white and dark meats.

Serves 4.

1 tbsp. cumin

1 tbsp. coriander

½ tsp. ground black pepper

1 ½ tsp. turmeric

¼ tsp. ground cloves

1/8 tsp. nutmeg

1/8 tsp. cinnamon

¼ cup cilantro leaves (packed)

1 tsp. fresh gingerroot (about ½” chunk)

2 cloves garlic, peeled

4 chicken or turkey kebabs

Place all ingredients (except kebabs) in the food processor and process until uniform spice mixture is formed.   Divide mixture amongst kebabs, about 1-2 tbsp. per kebab and rub into each kebab all around until coated.   Marinate for at least 2 hours or overnight.

Preheat grill to high.  Carefully oil grates (I use an oil-soaked wad of paper towels and tongs for this job).   Place chicken kebabs on grill for about 4-5 minutes per side, turning once; Turkey kebabs may take a little longer, about 6-7 minutes per side.

Transfer to a platter and serve over Basmati rice with Spicy Tamarind Dipping Sauce.

Spicy Tamarind Dipping Sauce

¼ cup tamarind paste

¼ light brown sugar

½-1 whole jalapeno pepper, seeds removed (how hot do you like it?)

2 tbsp. water

2 tbsp. fresh lime juice (from 1 lime)

1 clove garlic

1 tsp. fresh gingerroot

1/8 tsp. ground cloves

Place all ingredients into a food processor.  Process until blended and smooth.   Adjust seasonings to taste.

Yield: ½ cup

By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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