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In Search of a Kosher Philly Cheese Steak…Hold the cheese!

Tuesday, November 9th, 2010

Perched on my kitchen stool, I hunched ever so slightly over the latest issue of Bon Appetit. I could not help but salivate over a recipe that would soon be brimming on my stovetop. But as my eyes glanced down the ingredient list, I winced with disappointment while the mental debate ensued as to whether the dish could be made kosher. I mean, really, what can you substitute for clam juice? And of course the real underlying question: after all of the necessary substitutions are made, would it even be worth it after distorting the intended taste with so many replacement ingredients? Jewish cooks of yesteryear did not have such conflicts of interest. Many of the products we so commonly use today, like margarine or soymilk, either did not exist or were not readily available. But more than that, Jewish cooks were comfortable with their cuisine and cooking traditions, no matter what their nationality. Their food might have been Persian or Italian, but what defined their food as “Jewish” was that it was cooked in a kosher way – it was guided more by mitzvot than ethnicity. Modern kosher cooking has changed drastically over the past quarter century. With more exotic kosher foods available than ever before and the massively popular cooking shows and print media, it is easy to become a “foodie.” It is exciting to experience new tastes and aromas and to explore different flavors.  But for a purist like myself, I have to wonder if having the faux-cheese on my burrito is actually satisfying or just a sad attempt to feel as though we can eat anything we want and still remain within the bounds of Torah law.  As a general rule, I try to stay away from such compromises, especially since substitutions often involve artificial ingredients and unhealthy fats. The fresher and more natural the ingredients, the better your food will taste.  And though I suppose we all make concessions now and then, when in search of a kosher Philly Cheese Steak sandwich, I opted for a Philly Cheese-less Steak sandwich without hesitation.  A different animal, but kosher and delicious all the same. 

The key to kosher “substitutions” or just plain doing without, is in knowing how to sufficiently build and intensify flavors in other ways.  In this particular case, it is essential to use a tender well-marbled meat (I used shell steak, but rib-eye is also a great choice).  Caramelizing sweet onions and peppers with additional spices also boosts flavor.  The natural juices are fantastic to savor…even without the cheese whiz.

Kosher Philly Steak Sandwiches

Paper-thin slices can be prepared in advance by Park East Kosher upon request.  If slicing your own, simply freeze the meat, thaw halfway and then shave off slices with a sharp carving knife – works like a charm!

 Serves 4-6.

3 tbsp. olive oil

1 large Vidalia onion, quartered and thinly sliced

1 green bell pepper, seeded and cut into 2” thin strips

1 sweet red pepper, seeded and cut into 2” thin strips

1 tsp. salt

½ tsp. coriander

½ tsp. cumin

Plenty of freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 tbsp. canola or vegetable oil

1 ½ lbs. shell steak (or rib eye steak), sliced paper thin and seasoned lightly with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

6 crusty Italian sub or hoagie rolls

Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat.   Add the sliced onion and peppers and sauté for about 5-6 minutes, until onion becomes translucent.   Add all the spices, stir to blend and continue to sauté for another 6-7 minutes, or until onions become a golden brown color.    Transfer mixture to a bowl and add 1 tbsp. canola oil to the hot pan.   Place pieces of shaved steak in a single layer on the bottom of the pan.  Sear for 1 minute, turn over and sear for another minute.  Transfer to a separate bowl and repeat with remaining steak.    Slice hoagie rolls almost in half (leaving the two halves connected) and toast lightly, if desired.  Fill with pieces of seared steak slices and top with caramelized onion-pepper mixture.

*If making in advance of serving time, the steak sandwich can be reheated – assembled and wrapped in foil in a hot oven.

  

By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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Beyond Fish Sticks

Wednesday, November 3rd, 2010

No matter how good a cook you are, how apt you may be in the kitchen or how successfully you entertain, there is nothing quite as challenging (or humbling!) as getting your kids to eat new things.   I may be able to flambé, puree, and poach with ease, but get my five-year old, with raised eyebrows and arms crossed, to consider a dinner other than grilled cheese: that, my friends, is tough.

Surely, the exhaustion that follows the nightly struggles with a “picky eater” can leave a parent frustrated and dejected.  For if the job of a parent is to care about what your child eats, then it’s the job of a child to wear a parent down until you find yourself wondering “would it be so bad if I just gave in and made my kids macaroni every night?  C’mon, what would be so wrong with that?!”  Such were the thoughts that went through my mind the other night when defending a delicious chicken dinner.  Then my sanity returned.   With renewed conviction, I reminded myself that balanced nutrition and a healthy exposure to different foods were things worth fighting for.    

Food Neophobia, a reluctance to try new foods, is common in young children.  Up until age 2, most toddlers are open to trying new foods; but as children begin to become more independent, with greater control over what they put in their mouths, most kids experience some neophobia.  Some aversions may be attributed to sensory issues (as a child, I hated tomatoes because they were “slimy”), but new research has found that other taste preferences may be hardwired genetically.  “How much a person prefers sweet and dislikes bitter,” writes Cynthia Sass, M.P.H., R.D, “depends partly upon the number of taste buds and the type of taste receptors he or she inherits….Some people inherit genes for taste receptors that are acutely sensitive to bitterness” (EatingWell Magazine, Feb. 2007).  And that sensitivity might get in the way of consuming some of the healthiest foods associated with cancer and cardiovascular disease prevention, such as Brussels sprouts or kale or even grapefruit.  

Research scientists and nutritionists stress that there are a number of strategies parents can employ to overcome neophobic behavior.

  • DON’T GIVE UP!  It can take 10-15 tastes before a child can learn to appreciate a new flavor (case in point – by the end of a year in Israel exposed to a barrage of Israeli salad, I had become a tomato fan).   Start introducing tastes early – the younger, the better.
  • Try turning tasting sessions into a game as encouragement to try new foods.  Punishing for not eating green beans may be effective in the short term, but will not produce a vegetable lover! 
  • When introducing new or “challenging” foods with your kids, prepare them with sweet or intense flavors.  For example, baked fish is much more appetizing with teriyaki sauce; sauté spinach with something sweet like raisins and pine nuts or sweet roasted red peppers in order to make it less bitter to their palates.
  • Get your kids involved!  A trip to the supermarket to pick a “new” vegetable or ingredient will rouse their interest and might be just what’s needed to inspire more open eating, as well as empower them to feel that they too are a part of meal-time decisions.  If they can’t shop with you, then find ways of involving them in the preparation.  Cooking together is a great way of getting kids excited about what they are going to eat. 
  • Start small and work your way up! If your children won’t eat vegies, then it would be unrealistic to expect them to get excited over Brussels sprouts the first time around.  Start by introducing unfamiliar foods in a familiar way.  If pasta is a staple, try introducing sweet (less bitter) vegetables into the background.  Reintroduce it again in other subtle ways until it is no longer foreign.   If they develop an appreciation of the food, move on to something bigger.
  • When all else fails, the cardinal rule of feeding kids applies: if you fry it, they will eat it!  Kids love the crunchy feel of fried foods, however unhealthy they may be.  As a general rule though, I save this as a last resort or as a treat.

 

Even with these suggestions, some of my children would still be thrilled if they could have a diet of nothing but noodles.  And frankly, if I really discovered the secret to getting kids to eat, I’d be awarded the Nobel Prize.   That there is no magic pill may be true, but by encouraging a diverse diet and exposing them to new tastes, I have to believe that they will one day reap the rewards of both good health and an appreciation of the wonderful world of food that G-d created for them.  At the very least, it’s positive for them to see their parents trying new and interesting things – after all, the best way to teach is by example.

The following recipe was created with my “anti-meat” children in mind.  Many thanks to Mordechai, Sasha and her friend Shani for being taste-testers – it must have been good if she asked for some to take home!

Oven-Fried “Lollipop” Chicken

A little less caloric than classic fried chicken, this oven-fried recipe still yields a flavorful crispy crust.

 

Yield: 12 “lollipops”

12 chicken drumsticks

5 slices rye bread or French bread, crusts removed (makes about 3 cups crumbs)

1 large clove garlic

½ cup fresh parsley leaves, packed

½ tsp. kosher salt

½ tsp. ground black pepper

¼ tsp. cayenne pepper

1/3 cup Dijon mustard

¼ cup honey (scant)

1 tbsp. margarine, melted

1-2 tbsp. olive oil

Preheat oven to 425°.  Prepare a rimmed baking sheet with foil and grease with non-stick spray. 

Push the skin and flesh up to the nub of each drumstick, leaving the bone exposed (a natural handle) – a sharp paring knife may be helpful for this or you can ask your butcher to prepare them for you.

Place bread in bowl of food processor and pulse a few times to break up the bread slices.  Add the garlic, parsley, salt and peppers.  Pulse until coarse crumbs are formed, and the garlic and parsley are processed and distributed.  Transfer to mixing bowl.  Toss with melted margarine. 

In a separate small bowl, mix together mustard and honey until well blended.  Dip each drumstick in the honey-mustard mixture, and roll in breadcrumb mixture, pressing the breading onto the drumstick to adhere.   Place each drumstick in the prepared pan.  Drizzle with olive oil.  Bake for 20-25 minutes, turning drumsticks over halfway through baking time.

Serve hot and enjoy!
Naomi Ross and the Park East Kosher Family
By Naomi Ross

 

 

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IN PRAISE OF THE BRAISE, PART II: SLOW COOKING MAGIC!

Sunday, October 24th, 2010

When the Crock-Pot was invented in Missouri in 1960, no one could have foreseen how great the impact of this modern day slow-cooker would be.  It changed the way many women cooked, allowing them to easily prepare early in the day and have a hot dinner magically awaiting them upon their return, hours later!   Indeed, it was a woman’s dream and freed up much time spent at the stove.  From stews to chili, pot roasts to soups, the slow-cooker has enabled the working person to serve up home-cooked food while putting in a full day at the office.  Interestingly, the Crock-pot also transformed the way Jewish women prepared their weekly Shabbat cholent, a dish that was traditionally made and left in the oven or on the stovetop overnight; nowadays, it is pretty much exclusively prepared in a crock-pot.

With slight variation, most slow cooker recipes are quite simple: dump, cover, go!  This simple formula notwithstanding, crock-pot cookery recipes abound, displaying an incredible amount of creativity and ingenuity for what is mostly a hands-off cooking experience.  With that said, here are some helpful guidelines to ensure good crockery cooking:

  • What the crock-pot does best is braising – cooking a food (usually meat or vegetables) in a small amount of liquid at low heat for a lengthy period of time. The long, slow cooking develops flavor and tenderizes foods by gently breaking down their fibers.  The point being:  tough cuts of meat benefit the most from braising (some examples would include flanken, brisket, and shin meat).
  • A tight-fitting lid is very important to prevent the liquid from evaporating. Some people even close the lid over a piece of parchment paper to create a better seal.
  • To brown or not to brown?  Though many crock-pot recipes call for browning the meat as is classically done when braising (see last week’s article!) prior to slow cooking, many do not.  The benefit is that the meat develops more depth of flavor.   Generally, this is a matter of personal preference.  However, browning is a must with ground meat, and enables one to reduce the fat by draining after browning.
  • Spray the inside of your crock-pot with non-stick cooking spray for an easier clean up.
  • Most crock-pots come with low or high settings, allowing YOU to control the cooking time based on your own schedule.  High will cook faster, low will cook slower. The average cooking time for slow cooker recipes ranges between 4-10 hours.  Some slow-cookers have a “warm” setting, helpful for keeping food hot after cooking has completed.

 

With cooler nights upon us, what better way to warm up than by coming home to a hearty stew of Braised Lamb Shanks with Root Vegetables?  Prepare in the morning and forget about it till dinnertime!

Braised Lamb Shanks with Root Vegetables

Serve over a bed of Basmati rice or couscous.

Ingredients

 

1 Tbsp. olive oil

5 meaty lamb shanks

1 large onion, thinly sliced

3 large carrots, peeled and cut in 1” chunks

1 fennel bulb, fronds and stalks discarded, halved and sliced crosswise

1 celery stalk, sliced

1 medium potato, peeled and cut into 1” chunks

2 parsnips, peeled and cut into 1” chunks

5 cloves garlic, minced

2 tsp. kosher salt or more to taste

¾ tsp. ground black pepper or more to taste

1½ tsp. dried rosemary

1½ tsp. dried thyme

3 Tbsp. flour

3 Tbsp. tomato paste

¼ cup orange juice

2 cups dry white wine

½ cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable stock

¾ tsp. grated orange zest (optional)

Heat olive oil in a large skillet over high heat.  Sear the shanks on both sides until golden brown, about 3-4 minutes per side.  Transfer to the slow-cooker bowl.  Add onion, carrots, fennel, celery, potato, parsnips, and garlic to the bowl.  Combine remaining ingredients in a small bowl, mixing to blend and dissolve flour.  Pour mixture over lamb and vegetables.  Cover with lid.  Place bowl in slow cooker and turn on “low” setting.  Cook for 8-9 hours.  Skim off fat if necessary, and season to taste with salt and pepper.  

Serves 4-6.

Naomi Ross and the Park East Kosher Family
By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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In Praise of the Braise

Wednesday, October 20th, 2010

When we turned on the heat this past week, the new reality of the cooler weather began to sink in…to my cold hands and feet, that is.  As everyone knows, we are creatures impacted by the seasons, and this applies to our cooking as well.  So it was a natural response when, asked by a friend what recipes I was working on, that I dismissively replied, “recipes for the ‘Braising Season.’”

“The WHAT season?  What was that you said?”

Braising.  Simply put, the perfect cooking antidote for cold wintry nights, bound to warm the body and soul.  Or, if you are looking for a real definition:  Braising is a cooking technique in which the main ingredient is seared, or browned in fat, and then simmered in liquid on low heat in a covered pot.  Also known as “pot-roasting,” this is an essential technique for yielding succulent, tender results from otherwise tough cuts of meat.   By slowly simmering the meat in liquid (often wine or stock), the connective tissue found in more economical cuts of meat (parts of the animal that were well exercised) breaks down and melts into the fabulously flavorful cooking liquid which in turn helps to tenderize the muscle fibers.  The cuts of meat that benefit the most from this cooking method include: brisket, shanks, kolichel and short ribs; however, chicken (bone-in), firm-fleshed fish and vegetables can also benefit from this method with mouth-watering results. 

Beyond the amazing aroma that will fill your home when braising (and jealous neighbors wishing they were eating at your house for dinner!), there’s also some practical benefits to mention.  First of all, one-pot cooking means less clean-up.  Braising is also pretty much hands-off once the meat has been seared and the cooking has commenced.  This means your dinner can be prepared hours in advance and your hands are free to do other things while it cooks away.  

Braising can be done stove-top or in the oven.  I favor a combination of the two – browning the meat stove-top to start, then transferring to the oven for the majority cooking time.  With this approach, a pot that is both stove and oven friendly is particularly helpful – a Dutch oven or LeCrueset type of covered enameled pot/casserole will be great for this.

Comforting and homey, a pot roast will satisfy on the coldest winter night, transporting you back to your grandmother’s kitchen.  In recent years though, some braises have taken the front and center at high-end restaurants.   Here is my take on Braised Short Ribs – perfect for an intimate dinner or a crowd, this rich dish can be prepared in advance if desired.

Braised Short Ribs with Port and Pomegranate Sauce

Serve over a bed of mashed potatoes or parsnips.

Serves 4-6.

2 tbsp. olive oil

4- 4½ pounds beef short ribs

1 cup chopped carrots

1 cup chopped onion

1 cup chopped celery

8 garlic cloves, minced

¾ tsp. kosher salt

½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1 ½ cups dry red wine (Cabernet or Merlot)

2/3 cup Port

1½ cups (12 oz.) crushed tomatoes 

1 cup low-sodium chicken or beef stock

5 tbsp. pomegranate molasses

1 tbsp. honey (or more to taste)

1 bay leaf

2 tbsp. minced parsley or more for garnishing

Preheat oven to 350°F.  Heat oil in a heavy, large, oven-safe pot or casserole dish, over high heat.  Sprinkle ribs with salt and pepper.  Working in batches, brown ribs, turning occasionally, about 3 minutes per side.  Transfer to plate and set aside.  Lower heat to medium-high.  Add carrots, onion, and celery to the pot.  Season with ¾ tsp. salt and ½ tsp. black pepper.  Sauté for about 5-8 minutes, or until vegetables become tender, stirring occasionally.   Add garlic, stir to blend, and cook for another 3 minutes.  Add red wine, and bring to a boil, stirring and scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan.  Add Port, tomatoes, broth, pomegranate molasses, honey and bay leaf, and stir to blend.  Bring back to a boil, and simmer for about 6-8 minutes and until mixture is slightly thickened.  Return ribs to the pot, and boil for about 5 minutes.  Cover and transfer to oven.  Bake until meat almost falls off bone, stirring occasionally, about 2 hours.

Skim off excess fat from surface if necessary.  Using tongs, transfer ribs to a large bowl.  Return pot to stove over low heat.  Season to taste, adding more salt, pepper or honey if necessary.  Add minced parsley and simmer cooking liquid until slightly reduced, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes.  Remove from heat and top ribs with sauce.  Sprinkle more minced parsley to garnish, if desired.

Naomi Ross and the Park East Kosher Family
By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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One Kebab, Two kebab…

Tuesday, June 8th, 2010

Few people can resist the allure of open fire cooking.  The scent of caramelizing  juices rising up under your nose is enough to awaken man’s primeval roots.  Where smoky charring flavors meld with the subtle sweetness of delicately spiced meats: that is a meal worth breaking a sweat over.  Put it all on a skewer and the possibilities become endless.   

Shish kebab, literally “skewer” and “roasted meat” in Turkish, may have gotten its start by nomads skewering meat on their swords for a quick and inventive meal, but over time have impacted cooking traditions around the world, from Persia to Japan to India to the United States.   Traditionally, shish kebab are made with cubes of lamb that have been seasoned and marinated.  The speed at which the small pieces of meat cook make for a 10-minute meal-in-one, especially if you throw some vegetables on your stick, too.   Nowadays, whether fish is your fancy or a fruited kebab for dessert, there is no limit to how creative you can get.  Be sure to keep the following top five Do’s in mind when ”kebab-ing” (anything can be a verb, you know! ):

  • DO prepare pieces of meat/vegetables in uniform size pieces – about 1-2 inches to ensure even cooking.
  • DO choose bold flavors in your marinade or herb rub.
  • DO pair vegetables/fruits with similar cooking times to the meat (i.e. onions, peppers, cherry tomatoes, pineapple work well.   Hard vegetables like potatoes or carrots should be parboiled first).
  • DO soak wooden skewers for at least 20-30 minutes before threading and grilling to prevent catching fire on the grill.
  • DO oil your grill first to prevent sticking.

Admittedly a “newbie” to Indian food, I was recently introduced to a whole new world of vibrant flavors and tastes at a kosher Indian restaurant in NYC.    Ever since that memorable meal, Indian spices and ingredients seem to be finding their way into my home cooking, for example in the following Indian-inspired kebab recipe.   

A spicy Tamarind dipping sauce is the perfect complement to these kebabs.   Also known as Indian date, the tamarind is the fruit of a tall shade tree native to Asia and northern Africa and widely grown in India.  Available in Middle Eastern or Indian markets, tamarind paste is the extracted sweet and sour pulp found in the tamarind pod…and quite possibly my new favorite ingredient!

 

 

 

Indian Kebabs with Spicy Tamarind Dipping Sauce

Chicken or Turkey Kebabs work well in this recipe and come already cut and  skewered from Park East Kosher both in white and dark meats.

Serves 4.

1 tbsp. cumin

1 tbsp. coriander

½ tsp. ground black pepper

1 ½ tsp. turmeric

¼ tsp. ground cloves

1/8 tsp. nutmeg

1/8 tsp. cinnamon

¼ cup cilantro leaves (packed)

1 tsp. fresh gingerroot (about ½” chunk)

2 cloves garlic, peeled

4 chicken or turkey kebabs

Place all ingredients (except kebabs) in the food processor and process until uniform spice mixture is formed.   Divide mixture amongst kebabs, about 1-2 tbsp. per kebab and rub into each kebab all around until coated.   Marinate for at least 2 hours or overnight.

Preheat grill to high.  Carefully oil grates (I use an oil-soaked wad of paper towels and tongs for this job).   Place chicken kebabs on grill for about 4-5 minutes per side, turning once; Turkey kebabs may take a little longer, about 6-7 minutes per side.

Transfer to a platter and serve over Basmati rice with Spicy Tamarind Dipping Sauce.

Spicy Tamarind Dipping Sauce

¼ cup tamarind paste

¼ light brown sugar

½-1 whole jalapeno pepper, seeds removed (how hot do you like it?)

2 tbsp. water

2 tbsp. fresh lime juice (from 1 lime)

1 clove garlic

1 tsp. fresh gingerroot

1/8 tsp. ground cloves

Place all ingredients into a food processor.  Process until blended and smooth.   Adjust seasonings to taste.

Yield: ½ cup

By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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On the lighter side…

Tuesday, June 1st, 2010

I walked out this morning to the sun shining, the birds chirping, flowers blooming.  Ah…to behold the beautiful weather of summer!  The Creator of the world set into motion the seasons of the year, each one acting in a different way to affect our emotions and senses, and of course, our palates.  When the weather is cold and dreary, we retreat to the shelter of our homes, longing for the comforting foods that will warm our souls and get us through the winter.  But when the heat of summer arrives, what we naturally crave is something light and juicy that will satisfy our need to be refreshed.  It’s easy to cook by rote, making the same heavy food year round –  but often we fail to adapt to the changing seasons because we are afraid to be creative in the kitchen.

When it’s 90 degrees outside, our appetites are often sapped, leaving our bodies in an unnecessary state of lethargy after a heavy meal.  Oneg Shabbos (the enjoyment of Shabbos) as well as the enjoyment of any weekday meal can be found in lighter and more refreshing foods if we dare to be creative and explore new choices.  Let’s go for a walk on the cooler and lighter side…

  •     Salad it up!  In the warmer weather, replace those heavy kugels and side dishes with more salads: green leafy salads, grain salads, marinated salads and pasta salads. 
  •     Cold Soups.  There is nothing like coming home on a hot summer day, all red and flushed, to a beautiful bowl of cold fruit soup.  Guests always appreciate being cooled off, too!
  •     Reconfigure your serving style.   Instead of serving a single appetizer and then a much larger main course, expand your appetizer to a larger first course with dips, spreads and crudités.  Then serve a more moderate main course to allow for more balanced eating. 

In my family, we love serving grilled meat or chicken salads as a main dish for a light summer dinner or as an entrée on Shabbos afternoon.  It is not nearly as heavy, and everyone enjoys the different combinations we try.  Mix it up with different types of greens and dressings, raw or pre-roasted/grilled vegetables.  Have fun!  Be improvisational and creative with your cooking!   Here is a delicious family favorite – when basil is abundant, a little pesto makes all the difference. 

Grilled Steak and Portobello Salad with Honeyed Pesto 

Serves 4-6.

1/3 cup balsamic vinegar

½ tsp. dried or 1½ tsp. fresh chopped thyme

Kosher salt

Freshly ground pepper

½ cup olive oil

1 lb. filet split steak (or shell steak)

2-3 large Portobello mushrooms (caps only)

1 pkg. baby arugula

1 pint grape tomatoes

Whisk balsamic vinegar and spices together in a large mixing bowl until blended.  Drizzle olive oil into mixture while continuously whisking until all of the olive oil is incorporated.   Add steak and mushrooms to the mixture and turn to coat.  Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

Preheat grill to high.  Carefully oil grates to prevent sticking (I use an oil-soaked paper towel with tongs for this job).  Remove steak and mushrooms from the marinade (discarding marinade), and place on the grill directly over the heat. Grill steak on each side for about 5 minutes, mushrooms on each side for about 3-4 minutes, turning once during grilling.  Transfer to a plate or cutting board.

Place arugula on a large serving platter, spreading to create an even layer of greens.  Thinly slice steak across the grain and transfer to the center of the greens.  Repeat with mushrooms, and place on either sides of the steak.  Garnish with grape tomatoes and dress with spoonfuls of Honeyed-Pesto dressing.

Serve immediately.

Honeyed-Pesto Dressing

Pesto can be made in advance and stays for weeks in the refrigerator, perfect for dressing up salads or sandwiches anytime.

 

1 bunch fresh basil (2 cups packed leaves)

1/3 cup pine nuts, toasted

¼ cup honey (scant)

Juice of half a lemon

2 garlic cloves, peeled

½ cup olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Place basil leaves, pine nuts, honey, lemon juice and garlic in food processor bowl.  Pulse in food processor until ingredients are pulverized.  Then with the motor running, slowly drizzle olive oil in a continuous stream until emulsified.   Season to taste with salt and pepper.

By Naomi Ross


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Dairy Delights

Tuesday, May 11th, 2010

We have been counting for many weeks now, and the anticipation of Shavous — the Jewish holiday commemorating the giving of the Torah — is mounting day by day.   In about one week, we will experience the awe and magnitude of receiving our Holy Cheesecake.  Torah, what I really meant to say was Torah.   Sadly, we often (myself included) forget what the essence of Shavous is all about.   There are many customs which have shaped our enjoyment and celebration of this holiday, one of which is the tradition to eat dairy dishes.  There are many reasons for this custom, the most practical one being the immediate necessity to cook kosher food in the desert after having just received the new laws of kashrut at Mount Sinai.  The Jewish People needed time to prepare meat according to the new laws and to cleanse their pots, pans and plates.  Certainly, there are deeper explanations for the custom as well, all of which are more fully appreciated after a few bites of cheesecake!

After spending almost every festive meal of the year eating either no dairy products or poor imitations, it is easy to get carried away.  You nearly forget just how good the real stuff tastes. The same cookies you make year round with margarine are a different animal when made with real butter.  When planning Shavous meals, I try to choose recipes that will showcase the flavors of pure ingredients while at the same time striving to maintain balance in what could become an overly heavy meal.  Pesto with grated Parmesan, sour cream coffee cake, and cream of broccoli soup are all wonderful choices.  The following recipe for Broiled Halibut with Gingered Grapefruit Bruleé is not difficult to prepare; as always, if you use fresh, pure and good quality ingredients, you don’t need to do much to them in order to yield great results.  PEK’s wild caught Halibut is fresh and firm with a mild taste.  May the pure creaminess and sweetness of this year’s dairy delights remind us of the purity and sweetness of Torah and remain a sustaining taste in our mouths throughout the year.

Broiled Halibut with Gingered Grapefruit Bruleé

This elegant entrée becomes a “winner” with the accompanying Grapefruit beurre blanc, a rich, hot butter sauce made with a reduction of white wine and shallots into which cold, whole butter is blended off the heat to prevent separation. 

 

Serves 4.

For grapefruit beurre blanc:

 

1 pink or red grapefruit

1/4 cup dry white wine

1 shallot, minced

1 tsp. grated gingerroot

1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon-sized pieces

 

For fish:

2 pink or red grapefruits

4 6oz. halibut steaks with skin (1 1/2 lbs.) or other firm, white-fleshed fish

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 tbsp. minced crystallized ginger

3 tbsp. sugar

To make grapefruit beurre blanc:
Finely grate 1 teaspoon zest from one of the grapefruits.  Squeeze 1/2 cup juice from the grapefruit.   Place zest and juice into a small heavy saucepan.  Add wine, shallot, and grated gingerroot to the saucepan and stir to blend.  Place pan over medium heat and bring to a boil.  Boil until mixture is reduced by half.  Reduce heat to low and whisk in butter 1 piece at a time, lifting pan from heat occasionally to cool sauce and adding each new piece of butter before the previous one has melted completely (sauce must not get hot enough to separate).   Season to taste with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Keep beurre blanc warm in a metal bowl set over a saucepan of hot water.

To make fish:

Cut off the polar ends of the grapefruits with a sharp serrated knife.  Then slice the peel from the sides.  Trim away the white pith.  Working over a bowl, use a gentle sawing motion to cut along each membrane and release the grapefruit sections into the bowl.  (You will be left with an empty mass of membranes – discard!).   Set aside.

Preheat oven to broil.  Prepare a baking sheet, lined with foil.  Pat halibut dry and place fillets on the prepared baking sheet.  Season fish generously with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Place a single layer of grapefruit segments on the top of each piece of fish, covering the top of the fillet like a blanket.  Mix the crystallized ginger and sugar together in a small bowl (or give a whiz together in the food processor for a few seconds).  Sprinkle 2 teaspoons of the ginger-sugar over each grapefruit/fillet.  Place baking sheet in the top third of the oven, and broil for about 8-9 minutes, or until fish is done (flakes easily and is opaque in the middle) and the grapefruit is caramelized.  Remove from the oven and transfer to a serving plate.  Spoon warm beurre blanc over the fish.  Garnish with a fresh mint sprig.

*Cook’s note:  Fish can stay warm in a 225° oven.  Beurre blanc can stay warm in a double-boiler or even a thermos.

Bonus Recipe!!

To end the perfect Shavuos meal, you need a smash-hit cheesecake, and the following one sure fits the bill.  I’ve converted even the most reluctant guests into cheesecake lovers…and you will too!

Spiked Chocolate Cheesecake

 

Spiked with coffee liquor, this is not a cheesecake for the faint-hearted!

Yields: 12-16 servings

Crust:

1 pkg. Chocolate wafers/sandwich cookies (8 ½ oz. bag of oreos)

6 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted

Crush cookies in a food processor to make crumbs.  Combine cookie crumbs & melted butter in a medium bowl until well mixed.  Press the mixture into the bottom and up the sides (two inches) of an ungreased 9” spring form pan.  Refrigerate.

Filling:

2 8-oz. pkgs. Cream cheese, softened

2/3 cup sugar

3 eggs

12 oz. semi-sweet chocolate, melted

1 cup whipping cream

2 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted

1 tsp. vanilla

½ cup coffee-flavored liquor

Preheat oven to 325°.  In a large mixing bowl, combine the cream cheese and sugar.  Beat until smooth.  Add eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition.  Add whipping cream, butter, vanilla and liquor.  Beat until smooth.  Add melted chocolate and gently fold into mixture until completely combined. 

Wrap the bottom of the crust-lined spring form pan with 3 layers of aluminum foil.  Pour batter into pan.  Place pan into a larger pan/dish and fill with enough water to come up the sides of the spring form pan ¾”.  Place the pan holding the spring form into the oven and bake for 55-65 minutes or until edges are set.  The center of the cheesecake will be soft.  Allow cheesecake to cool, then refrigerate 2-3 hours minimum, preferably overnight.  Garnish with reserved cookie crumbs, chocolate curls or sliced strawberries.  Carefully remove the outer rim of the spring form pan before serving. Serve and enjoy!

By Naomi Ross

 

 

 

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‘Grease Lightning!’

Tuesday, April 20th, 2010

I try to be honest, so I’m not going to try to convince you that frying is actually good for you.  It’s not. Now that we have gotten that out of the way, I can continue in defense of the crispy, succulent goodness that good frying is all about (we’ll talk about healthy eating next week, ok?).

We have all been traumatized by badly fried food: the oil is oozing, the crust is soggy.  It’s an unappetizing mess and downright bad for you.  If done correctly, however, frying is not as unhealthy as one might think.   In fact, a good fry does not actually cause the food to absorb that much oil at all.  Because I hear you squirming in your seat, let’s start off slow and talk about pan-frying (I’ll leave deep-frying for another time!). 

When pan-frying, the food is semi-submerged in hot oil in a pan on the stove top and flipped halfway through cooking. Foods that benefit from this method would include naturally tender cuts of poultry or veal, delicate fish fillets, and vegetables. 

Free yourself of your frying fears!  Follow these tips for perfectly crisp-on-the-outside, moist and tender on-the-inside results that cook lightning fast!  

  • Choose your cooking oil carefully. You want one with a high ‘smoke point’: in other words, one which won’t break down at high frying temperatures. Peanut oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil and canola oil are some good choices (olive oil is not because it has a low burning point).
  • Choose a deep, heavy pan for frying.  Leaving a headspace (space at the top of the pan) of at least one to two inches allows for a safety margin when the oil bubbles up as the food is added.  A good heavy pan with a thick bottom will also conduct heat better, saving you from unevenly cooked, burnt food.
  • Make sure that the food you are going to fry is dry.  Oil and water do not mix, especially at such high temperatures and burns from splattering oil are not fun.
  • The best temperature for frying is 350-375 degrees F.  When deep-frying, the best way to make sure you’ve got it right is with a fry thermometer; but with pan-frying, the shallow depth of oil in the pan may preclude this.  You can tell that oil is ready when a 1″ cube of white bread dropped into the oil sizzles upon contact and browns in 60 seconds. 
  • The food should be less than an inch thick (thin cutlets work best).  If too thick, the surface of the food will burn before the center is cooked.  The oil should be no more than half as high as the food so that the same area is not fried twice when you flip it.
  • Don’t overcrowd the pan! Carefully add the food, leaving lots of space around each piece so the food will cook evenly. If you add too much food at once, the oil temperature will drop and the food will absorb fat.
  • Watch the food carefully as it cooks, regulating the heat if necessary to keep the oil temperature steady. When the food is evenly golden-browned on both sides, it’s done. Remove it with a slotted spoon with a long handle. Drop it onto paper towels in a single layer to drain.
  • Don’t reuse the cooking oil after it cools. Some sources say you can strain it and reuse it, but the oil has already begun to break down from the heat, and undesirable compounds have formed. Let the oil cool completely, and then discard safely.  I pour it in a jar and throw it in the garbage.  Don’t pour it down the drain!

 The following recipe is a very flavorful, Indian twist on classic fried chicken cutlets.   Eaten hot and right out of the pan, there is nothing like it…and your kids will ask for more!

MURGI CHICKEN

This recipe can easily be doubled.  Cut chicken into smaller strips and make the best chicken fingers ever!

 

1 medium onion, quartered

2 tsp. chopped fresh ginger

2 garlic cloves

½ tsp. ground turmeric

½ tsp. salt

¼ tsp. pepper

2-4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (cutlets)

¼ cup flour

2 eggs, beaten

1 cup cornflake crumbs

peanut or corn oil

1)  Process the onion, ginger, garlic, and spices in a food processor until pureed.

2)  Tenderize chicken breasts until they have an even thin thickness.

3)  Marinate chicken breasts in the onion mixture for 2-3 hours in the refrigerator.

4)  Prepare 3 bowls – one with flour, one with beaten eggs, and one with cornflake crumbs. 

5) Dip the chicken in flour, then egg and then Cornflake crumbs. Place on a plate until frying time.

6)  Heat oil in a large skillet until very hot (drop of water sizzles upon contact).

7)  Fry cutlets on both sides, about 5 minutes per side or until breading is golden brown.

8)  Transfer to paper towels or brown paper to drain.  Serve hot and enjoy!

Serves 4.
By Naomi Ross

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Jewish Food

Friday, January 8th, 2010

Jewish traditions come from many years in history and Jewish food, therefore, is very diverse. Over many centuries of the development of Jewish nation, Jewish food traditions have evolved and formed the traditional Jewish food and dietary traditions and laws, known in the world as Kashrut (or eating kosher).

Kashrut is a Jewish way of making eating not just a physical pleasure, but more a spiritual thing. It is a way that Jews use to follow Torah and live a Jewish life, as well as to show that you are a Jew. Jewish people believe that eating a very significant effect psychologically, physiologically and spiritually. Following kashrut and keeping the Jewish dietary laws causes you to think and make a choice every time you put something in your mouth. Jewish food traditions are passed from one generation to another.

It is wise to say that Jewish food traditions have been affected by the geographic positioning – as Jewish people live all over the world, as well as local agriculture and economics, but Jewish food is a lot more traditional and a lot more meaningful, than any other national food in the world.

Jewish food varies in style and is different for Jewish people from different areas:
• Ashkenazi – Jews that live in Central and Eastern Europe. Jewish food from these areas is usually characterized by a lot of various seasonings in a special style with sweet and sour flavor. Dishes from these areas are usually sweeter;
• Sephardic – Jews that are Iberian Jews descendants (Jews from Balkans, Italy, Turkey and Greece). This type of cooking usually include lots of herbs, olive oil and spices that are traditional to these areas, as well as lots of such fruits and vegetables, as lemons, tomatoes, ginger, garlic, cumin and other;
• Mizrahi – Jews from North African countries, such as Tunisia, Morocco, Algeria, as well as Syria, Iraq, Lebanon, Yemen, and even Indian Jews;
• Jews from Israel adapted most of these cooking traditions, also adding the Middle Eastern flavor, creating the Jewish fusion cooking style;
• Jews from Central Asian countries also have distinctive cooking traditions in Jewish food.
Following kashrut requires Jewish people to understand the Torah and its meaning. Here are the major Jewish food laws that Jews should follow:
1. Animal, bird and fish meat in Jewish food. Has to be ruminant with split hooves (like cows, goat, sheep). Pig is not kosher. Birds that come from prey are not kosher, kosher birds include chickens, geese and ducks. Tuna, founder and salmon, as well as other sea creatures that have scales and fins are kosher. Squids, shellfish, whales meat is not kosher.
2. Slaughtering of an animal or bird should be performed according to Jewish laws, called shechita.
3. Animal or bird, in order to be kosher, should not have one of the 70 different categories of injuries and diseases, called treifot.
4. Some fats, called chelev, are not allowed for eating. Meat should not contain blood. Sciatic nerve has to be remover in each of the animal legs, as well as all surrounding fat.
5. It is not allowed to mix milk and meat (animal or bird) in Jewish food in either eating or cooking.
6. Tithes should be separated from all crops, such as barley or wheat, and fruits.
7. Milk products are only kosher, if they come from a kosher animal.
From these rules and traditions in the Jewish food we can see that keeping kosher is mostly about discipline and self-control. Eating is an important spiritual and psychological part of Jewish tradition, so Jewish food habits are important for any Jew in the world.

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Kosher bison meat

Tuesday, November 10th, 2009

Healthy eating tips – kosher bison meat. 

 

Bison meat (also known as buffalo meat) is one of the healthiest and best tasting meats you could ever eat. Buffalos are usually grass-fed and grow healthy, so you can enjoy the taste of kosher bison meat. Their meat is very tender and delicious, if cooked properly. Bison meat is becoming more and more popular nowadays. Some luxurious restaurants offer bison meat foods in their menus.

 

Bison meat is very nutritious (actually kosher bison meat is the most nutritious meat that you could ever find!). Because of its nutritious value the kosher bison meat is strongly recommended by many food and medical experts. The taste of bison meat is similar to the taste of high class beef meat. But at the same time, you will find that the taste of bison meat is a lot more tender and sweet.

Kosher bison meat contains a lot more minerals and proteins that other meats (relatively to the value of its calories). At the same time, the level of cholesterol, fat and calories in kosher bison meat is much lower than in any other meat. Bison meat is also considered healthier for eating than other meats due to its higher content of fatty acids and iron.

Kosher bison meat nutrition facts (accounted for 100g of cooked meat):

 

                             Kosher Bison Meat           Beef         Pork        Chicken

Fat contents:                 2.42g                           9.28g         9.66g      7.41g

Calories:                      148Kcal                         211Kcal    212Kal    190Kcal

Cholesterol content:     82mg                        86mg        86mg         89mg

As you can see from the table above, kosher bison meat is perfectly suitable for people, who are on low calorie, low-fat or low cholesterol diet. The taste of bison meat is fresh and exclusive, and it can also be used for different dishes and in different forms. Kosher bison meat is very easy to prepare. Kosher buffalo meat can be easily used in any dish, which contains meat, in order to substitute beef or chicken. And you can be absolutely sure that it will not only make your meal healthier, but will improve its taste as well.

Kosher bison meat is very easy to prepare and you do not need to be a specialist to make it taste good. You can cook kosher bison meat just like you usually cook beef, as just like beef, this meat tastes better, when cooked rare or medium. Try to cook the meat so that all the meat juices stay inside.

Check out offerings of kosher bison meat to taste the tender and delicious meat and eat healthier today!

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