When we turned on the heat this past week, the new reality of the cooler weather began to sink in…to my cold hands and feet, that is. As everyone knows, we are creatures impacted by the seasons, and this applies to our cooking as well. So it was a natural response when, asked by a friend what recipes I was working on, that I dismissively replied, “recipes for the ‘Braising Season.’”
“The WHAT season? What was that you said?”
Braising. Simply put, the perfect cooking antidote for cold wintry nights, bound to warm the body and soul. Or, if you are looking for a real definition: Braising is a cooking technique in which the main ingredient is seared, or browned in fat, and then simmered in liquid on low heat in a covered pot. Also known as “pot-roasting,” this is an essential technique for yielding succulent, tender results from otherwise tough cuts of meat. By slowly simmering the meat in liquid (often wine or stock), the connective tissue found in more economical cuts of meat (parts of the animal that were well exercised) breaks down and melts into the fabulously flavorful cooking liquid which in turn helps to tenderize the muscle fibers. The cuts of meat that benefit the most from this cooking method include: brisket, shanks, kolichel and short ribs; however, chicken (bone-in), firm-fleshed fish and vegetables can also benefit from this method with mouth-watering results.
Beyond the amazing aroma that will fill your home when braising (and jealous neighbors wishing they were eating at your house for dinner!), there’s also some practical benefits to mention. First of all, one-pot cooking means less clean-up. Braising is also pretty much hands-off once the meat has been seared and the cooking has commenced. This means your dinner can be prepared hours in advance and your hands are free to do other things while it cooks away.
Braising can be done stove-top or in the oven. I favor a combination of the two – browning the meat stove-top to start, then transferring to the oven for the majority cooking time. With this approach, a pot that is both stove and oven friendly is particularly helpful – a Dutch oven or LeCrueset type of covered enameled pot/casserole will be great for this.
Comforting and homey, a pot roast will satisfy on the coldest winter night, transporting you back to your grandmother’s kitchen. In recent years though, some braises have taken the front and center at high-end restaurants. Here is my take on Braised Short Ribs – perfect for an intimate dinner or a crowd, this rich dish can be prepared in advance if desired.
Braised Short Ribs with Port and Pomegranate Sauce
Serve over a bed of mashed potatoes or parsnips.
Serves 4-6.
2 tbsp. olive oil
4- 4½ pounds beef short ribs
1 cup chopped carrots
1 cup chopped onion
1 cup chopped celery
8 garlic cloves, minced
¾ tsp. kosher salt
½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 ½ cups dry red wine (Cabernet or Merlot)
2/3 cup Port
1½ cups (12 oz.) crushed tomatoes
1 cup low-sodium chicken or beef stock
5 tbsp. pomegranate molasses
1 tbsp. honey (or more to taste)
1 bay leaf
2 tbsp. minced parsley or more for garnishing
Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat oil in a heavy, large, oven-safe pot or casserole dish, over high heat. Sprinkle ribs with salt and pepper. Working in batches, brown ribs, turning occasionally, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to plate and set aside. Lower heat to medium-high. Add carrots, onion, and celery to the pot. Season with ¾ tsp. salt and ½ tsp. black pepper. Sauté for about 5-8 minutes, or until vegetables become tender, stirring occasionally. Add garlic, stir to blend, and cook for another 3 minutes. Add red wine, and bring to a boil, stirring and scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add Port, tomatoes, broth, pomegranate molasses, honey and bay leaf, and stir to blend. Bring back to a boil, and simmer for about 6-8 minutes and until mixture is slightly thickened. Return ribs to the pot, and boil for about 5 minutes. Cover and transfer to oven. Bake until meat almost falls off bone, stirring occasionally, about 2 hours.
Skim off excess fat from surface if necessary. Using tongs, transfer ribs to a large bowl. Return pot to stove over low heat. Season to taste, adding more salt, pepper or honey if necessary. Add minced parsley and simmer cooking liquid until slightly reduced, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes. Remove from heat and top ribs with sauce. Sprinkle more minced parsley to garnish, if desired.
Naomi Ross and the Park East Kosher Family
By Naomi Ross
